Sleeves pushed up, hands thrust in pockets, and a nonchalant yet confident walk: the Saint Laurent man is sure of his charm. Anthony Vaccarello has stamped, once again, a precise and poetic silhouette onto his new Spring/Summer 2026 collection, emphasising that signature style lies not just in aesthetics, but in poise and attitude.
Turned-up short shorts, sheer nylon skirts, and ledge-shouldered silk shirts appear alongside sharp, 1980s-inspired tailoring with strong, squared shoulders. The collection masterfully balances architectural structure with fluid sensuality, making it a study in controlled contrast. Through this structural storytelling, Vaccarello once again reimagines masculine sensibility.
In contrast to previous collections — where a dramatic, kinky-chic Parisian, a devoted lover of black, dominated the narrative — we are now introduced to a lighter, sunlit version of the Saint Laurent man. This season, Vaccarello reveals himself as a master colourist, leaving behind the darkness and thigh-high leather boots for the clarity of afternoon light. The colour palette leans into muted, analogous tones: rust, ochre, navy, olive, burgundy, forest green, and a delightful spectrum of browns. Worn in single-colour ensembles or individual monochrome looks, this collection favours cohesive sets and tonal richness, inspired by Larry Stanton’s watercolours.
The styling embraced a quiet playfulness: silk shirts layered over matching shorts or pleated trousers, with matching ties twisted and tucked precisely at the third button down. Trousers sat slightly lower, shirts remained untucked, belts fastened in an unconventional, almost careless way. Collars were left open. It’s a calculated ease — a studied ‘undone’ look that still feels entirely intentional.
While Vaccarello’s womenswear often pays homage to Saint Laurent’s couture legacy, his menswear tends to channel the man himself. This time, the two merge beautifully in a collection that remembers fashion history, but also the designer’s personal style and life. We are transported to an imagined version of Saint Laurent on Fire Island: a place of natural beauty, rich LGBTQ+ history, and boundless artistic creativity. “A painter on a seaside porch, shirt unbuttoned, walking barefoot through a hazy dusk.” Even though Saint Laurent never went there, Vaccarello evokes the aura of a Parisian visiting the place in the 1970s and infuses the collection with a fragile, tender energy: a nod to the shadow of the AIDS crisis in the 1980s, and to Saint Laurent’s own battles with addiction.
We see a photo of the young Yves on holiday in Nigeria, wearing wide shorts and a long-sleeved shirt. Through it, we are reminded of the collection’s essence: a softened masculinity steeped in warmth and memory. But it also acts as a reminder of a generation that lived intensely, not knowing what was going to happen — a heads-up not to miss your life.
Held at the jaw-dropping Bourse de Commerce above Céleste Boursier-Mougenot’s Clinamen installation, this collection is both sensual and nostalgic, but always seen through the distinct Saint Laurent lens: elegant, sharp, and understated. Vaccarello continues to redefine masculinity: like Stanton’s art, the clothes are delicate without being fragile, light yet grounded, sensual yet strong.
