Embodying an ideology that challenges conventional fashion norms and advocates for a progressive, almost avant-garde approach to self-expression, Pas Une Marque is much more than a fashion brand. “We are not just creating clothes; we are crafting narratives,” says Sean Coutts, the Miami-born, Peru-raised designer behind this project and with whom we now speak after having presented their Fall/Winter 2024 collection, Seams of Dissent, during New York Fashion Week at New York Men's Day. We ask him about how they are sparking conversations and building a community that values authenticity over conformity through fashion.
One of the fundamental pillars on which this French luxury streetwear brand founded in 2018 is built is “not bowing to societal norms." But how have they managed to forge their own discourse without being carried away by trends and breaking free from socially imposed constraints? “Our approach to combating societal norms is rooted in innovation and subversion. By deconstructing classic silhouettes and reconstructing them in unexpected ways, we challenge the expected narratives of what fashion should be,” he tells us about the process they have been working on for years. “We incorporate materials and techniques that are typically overlooked or undervalued, thus questioning and expanding the boundaries of what is considered fashionable or mainstream.”
Their latest collection, Seams of Dissent, was presented at New York Men's Day, marking a pivotal moment for Pas Une Marque. “This platform allowed us to showcase our craft on a stage that embraces diversity and creativity. The energy and engagement from the audience were palpable, reinforcing that our message resonates deeply with those yearning for change and new narratives in fashion,” the designer replies when asked about how he lived this experience. This collection lets us see the DNA that the project has built in its more than five years of life, and how it has evolved over time.
An evolution in which art, in its various manifestations, has always been present. For their last presentation, Pas Une Marque joined forces with sculptor Johnson Tsang to blend the collection with his vision. “I had long admired his work for its emotional depth and technical precision. When we reached out to him, it was clear that we shared our passion for challenging conventions and exploring new dimensions of expression. This partnership was a fusion of fashion and sculpture, where fabric and form tell a unified, compelling story.”
Drawing inspiration from the spirit of rebellion and the art of deconstruction, Seams of Dissent is a bold reimagining of luxury ready-to-wear fashion that aims to reshape and redefine traditional fashion norms. “The most significant piece from the collection is undoubtedly the Multi-Key Alpaca Wool Coat. This garment beautifully encapsulates our ethos, marrying meticulous craftsmanship with profound symbolism,” Sean tells us, highlighting the use of luxurious brushed alpaca wool, which adds a layer of tactile elegance, making it a statement piece.
And what are the brand's goals for the coming years? “Over the next five years, Pas Une Marque aims to deepen our commitment to sustainable practices and broaden our influence within and beyond the fashion industry.” An objective is that they will combine by expanding their collaborations with artists and creators from different disciplines to further enrich their designs and ideas. “Ultimately, our goal is to redefine what a fashion brand can be and do, driving towards a more inclusive, reflective, and conscious industry.”