Paris Fashion Week Menswear F/W 2025

And no, Dior Men is not missing; we would never do that. Kim Jones's latest and last collection at the helm of the Homme division of the French maison was probably his best one to date, and we discuss it all in his very own article, as he deserves. The diversity of this season’s selection must be highlighted, with proposals for all tastes and styles coming from designers from all over the world, making PFW a point of encounter of different cultures and creative visions.

Anthony Vaccarello looks to the past to reimagine the house's future. The starting point? An imaginary meeting between Yves Saint Laurent and Robert Mapplethorpe in the 1980s, giving rise to a collection that oscillates between restriction and provocation. Inspiration from YSL's timeless designs and their bold reinterpretation mark the character and style of the collection.

Silhouettes alternate between structured rigidity and relaxed fluidity: short bomber jackets coexist with long coats trimmed in feathers. Suits evoking Haute Couture and Rive Gauche are worn with leather boots that reach above the knee, defying any preconceived ideas of gender, status or style. A colour palette that remains sober with black, grey, and navy blue but leaves some room for green, yellow, and different shades of brown. Saint Laurent reaffirms its identity and heritage with an elegance always in tension, a contemporary classic that never gives in to nostalgia.

Changing scenery from New York runways to the Parisian ones, the Mexican-American designer transforms fashion into a statement of principles and values. Tarantula is a manifesto of resistance and unity, a collection that embraces the opposition between shadow and light, leaving a message of collective hope. In his universe, Chicano culture, streetwear and tailoring from the forties and fifties converge to challenge established codes and open the meaning of men's fashion.

His tailoring finds inspiration in the 1940s and 1950s, with broad-shouldered suits and voluminous trousers, decorated with floral brooches that evoke family gatherings and celebrations. Added to this mix is an unexpected Parisian influence in tweed jackets reminiscent of Coco Chanel and in the use of velvet, which adds an air of quiet luxury. The collaboration with Adidas closed the show with a streetwear capsule collection that combines the sportswear and the stylish: shorts, jumpers and tracksuits with puffed sleeves redefine the concept of streetwear. Red, black, white and navy dominate the palette, emphasising the intensity of a collection that becomes an act of resistance and inspiration for the racialised and queer communities living in the United States that are being silenced and oppressed by the new president's new policies.

Sean Suen 

Sean Suen bridges the past and the future through The ancient tea horse road. The collection immerses itself in the cultures, traditions and beliefs that for centuries travelled the tea and horse trade route in China. From this perspective, fashion becomes a cultural vehicle, a language that transcends all borders.

The pieces recall the journey through natural materials such as wool and leather that contrast with technological fabrics that project the gaze towards new ways of life. Fringes, capes and hats take us to the Qinchai-Tibet plateau, while the golden and silver bells on ties, shoes and hats refer to the sounds of horses on the road. A colour palette dominated by blacks, greys, yellows and browns, inspired by the arid landscapes of the route. Suen translates memory into functionality and comfort, creating pieces that not only dress but also tell stories of resistance and connection with nature.

Kidsuper 

Colm Dillane has long been one to play it safe, and From a Place I Have Never Been reaffirms this. Inspired by the thrill of the unknown and introspection, KidSuper's creative director fuses fashion, art and performance in a collection that challenges the limits of imagination and creativity. The collaboration with cinematic artist Daniel Wurtzel turned the runway into a whirlwind of energy, where pieces moved with the lightness of air.

Eclectic prints and bolder, more vibrant colours intertwined with new textures and subtler tones, reflecting an introspection unusual for the brand. Experimentation goes further with pieces such as a coat that transforms into a hammock (in collaboration with HAMCUS), precision tailoring developed with Kody Philips or the reinterpretation of iconic patterns and designs from the Japanese brand BAPE. The result? A vibrant proposal, where fashion becomes an act of exploration and fearless self-expression.

Walter Van Beirendonck 

The Belgian designer is once again challenging fashion with New, a collection that questions nostalgia for the archive and reclaims the need for innovation in design. The fashion show, held in the northern suburb of Saint-Ouen, was a declaration of intent: in a world dominated by repetition and vintage aesthetics, he opts for limitless exploration.

Silhouettes are amplified with puffed volumes, fur coats, structured jackets, and alien prints on different garments. Surreal details such as the extraterrestrial silicone fingers worn by all the models and the hats created by Stephen Jones add a playful dimension to the collection. English and Scottish fabrics contrast with 3D-printed pieces and AI-generated images, creating a dialogue between the traditional and the futuristic. More sober, wintry tones such as black, burgundy and brown mix with vibrant oranges, greens and yellows.

“But I see it as my duty to keep pushing what is possible in fashion. I want future generations to know that no limit can stop creation. Only fear can”, said Beirendonck. His proposal is a call for unrestricted innovation, a radical vision of fashion that challenges the established rules.

Egonlab’s collection, S4LEM, blends historical allegories with contemporary social critique. Drawing from the Salem Witch Trials, designers Florentin Glémarec and Kévin Nompeix craft a wardrobe that symbolically challenges modern-day persecution, particularly the marginalisation of minority voices. Through an avant-garde lens, the collection transforms traditional materials and silhouettes into striking statements of defiance and resilience. Denim adopts a liquid-like sheen reminiscent of melted wax, while belts and hardware distort conventional forms, embodying themes of suppression and liberation.

Infused with mystical undertones, the collection embraces esoteric symbolism, woven into its dark, moody palette. Hair—a deeply personal and expressive medium—becomes an integral part of accessories, reinforcing the intimate relationship between identity and clothing. The rebellious spirit of the line reaches new heights through a collaboration with Zadig&Voltaire, where rockstar-infused leather pieces adorned with vintage studs capture the raw energy of music and art. Together, Egonlab and Zadig&Voltaire challenge fashion’s boundaries, celebrating individuality and the power of self-expression.

Taking over the runway slot previously held by Homme Plissé Issey Miyake, Im Men presents a more avant-garde vision while Homme Plissé Issey Miyake shifts to more intimate presentations. The collection, designed by a trio of designers who worked closely with the late Issey Miyake, builds upon his core philosophy of "a piece of cloth," pushing the boundaries of menswear through innovative design and meticulous craftsmanship. Presented in a historical monastery, the show emphasised the dynamic interplay between fabric and the human form, with models showcasing the garments' lightweight construction and ingenious articulation through movement.

The collection itself explored the intersection of fashion and sculpture, focusing on the space between the body and the fabric. Garments transformed with movement, revealing new functionalities and possibilities. Sustainable materials like plant-based polyester and Ultrasuede were central to the designs, which emphasised multifunctionality through reversible coats, modular panels, and removable padding. The collection was organised into distinct design series, each showcasing unique approaches to fabric manipulation. While sharing the foundational philosophy of the Issey Miyake brand, IM MEN distinguishes itself with a more structured and sculptural aesthetic compared to Homme Plissé Issey Miyake. The collection's complex layering, fuller volumes, and diverse textures signal a bold new chapter for the brand, justifying its prominent position within the Issey Miyake universe.

Lemaire 

Christophe Lemaire and Sarah-Linh Tran elevated Parisian chic for their Fall/Winter 2025 collection, showcasing the designs at their Paris headquarters. The sophisticated and functional collection expertly blended materials and signature styles, featuring leather-on-leather looks and combinations of silk and canvas. This co-ed offering emphasises the versatility of each piece, seamlessly transitioning from everyday wear to more refined occasions. Lemaire's precise tailoring is evident in the dramatic, shapely coats, flowing skirts, and slouchy trousers, all designed for a modern, minimalist aesthetic. The evolving wardrobe includes blended knits with integrated balaclavas in soft earth tones, punctuated by vibrant scarlet, indigo, cobalt blue, and iron.

The collection largely featured a neutral palette, showcased in leather bombers, oversized blazers, and trench coats in classic black, brown, and beige. However, striking all-red ensembles made a powerful statement on the runway, injecting a burst of colour into the collection. Adding to the allure, new accessories were introduced, including uniquely shaped bags.

Mike Amiri, having achieved considerable success with his signature distressed denim and distinctive grunge-streetwear origins, presents a new side to him this season. His Fall 2025 collection further solidifies the shift, drawing inspiration from 1960s Hollywood—his home. This season represents Amiri's most committed exploration of vintage cinema and nightlife, offering a nostalgic and optimistic perspective in a time when such sentiment is often lacking. Amiri reimagines a range of 1960s semi-formal classics. Generously cut double-breasted suits anchor the collection, complemented by leather trench coats, safari jackets, playful tuxedo variations, souvenir bombers, and preppy cardigans, all layered with a louche elegance. 

The rose serves as the collection's central motif, appearing in prints, jacquards, lapel brooches, and even as a sculptural golden rose delicately held by many models. Almost every other look features rhinestones, sequins, intricate metallic embroidery, or shimmering velvet, exuding a rockstar glamour reminiscent of a smoky recording studio or a stylish conversation pit. Notably, the runway also showcased womenswear for the first time. While a core women's line already existed, this presentation marked its arrival in the spotlight with a significant crossover with the men's suiting; a sleeveless knit and a flowing silk dress made a powerful statement about Amiri's expanded focus on womenswear.

Juun.J took centre stage with Coverunconver. The collection delved into the interplay of concealment and revelation, exploring multifaceted identities through a dynamic interplay of volumes, textures, and layering. Juun.J's signature conceptual minimalism and tailoring expertise were evident in the garments, which juxtaposed oversized and fitted silhouettes to create a sense of harmonious tension. Strategic volume placement accentuated key areas like shoulders, hips, and waists, while denim was reimagined with asymmetrical and deconstructed details, adding a modern edge to classic pieces. Luxurious materials like leather, suede, and fur provided textural richness, complementing the diverse range of silhouettes that spanned from figure-hugging skirts to utilitarian cargo pants.

The collection is a mix between formality and informality through the layering of tailored pieces with denim. The runway presentation itself reinforced the collection's core themes. A diverse and striking cast of models embodied a minimalist aesthetic, with natural hair and minimal makeup allowing the garments to take centre stage. Juun.J's latest offering built upon his previous work, reinterpreting familiar motifs like voluminous jackets and oversized outerwear for a fresh perspective. The collection demonstrated a sophisticated understanding of volume, silhouette, and material, resulting in pieces that were both intricate and effortlessly wearable, seamlessly blending high fashion with a touch of street sensibility.