Some of the most interesting, relevant, and culturally influential movements in fashion of the 20th century didn't happen in the front row of fashion weeks or under the spotlight of paparazzi in the fanciest restaurant in town; they happened underground, in places where the stigmas, social constructs, or stereotypes were not allowed; they had plenty of space to thrive on the surface. The exhibition at the Fashion and Textile Museum in London, Outlaws: Fashion Renegades of 80s London, dives into the vibrant and rebellious world of the legendary Taboo nightclub, one of the creative boiling points of the 80s conceived by designer and artist Leigh Bowery, and you will be able to explore and learn all about it until March 9th of 2025.
In true Bowery fashion, where his every move, performance, or idea carried a cultural significance that transcended time, Taboo evolved from a club to the heart of a creative energy that influenced performers, artists, and fashion designers. The exhibition takes viewers back to a time when the anarchic spirit of the night fuelled daring, experimental art and fashion during the day by showcasing the original clothing, accessories, and artwork of over thirty designers. In addition to a tribute to the marketplaces where designers like Pam Hogg and BodyMap got their start, visitors will be able to start their journey with a reproduction of Bowery's flat, complete with its oddball Star Trek wallpaper.
One of the main highlights of the exhibition is the recreated Taboo dance floor, styled by club kid David Cabaret, where original mannequins display iconic outfits, reminiscing about the original figures that filled the stage back then—the best way to make our 21st-century selves feel the magic of the night scene in the 80s. From Leigh Bowery’s red and green spotted coat for Michael Clark to Cabaret’s futuristic Bumps Outfit, the designs show the fearless creativity of the era. Taboo’s influence even managed to expand overseas, in New York, where club queen Susanne Bartsch showcased pieces by London designers in her Roxy Roller Rink fashion show, making the world realise London was calling.
Outlaws: Fashion Renegades also captures the raw DIY spirit of the era, from market stalls to the squat culture that allowed young, working-class creatives to experiment freely. Influenced by punk's rebellious edge and glam rock's excess, these designers tore down societal norms, using fashion as a tool for self-expression and subversion. The Remake and Remodel section of the expo looks back at the creations born from this artistic freedom, like the ones from The House of Beauty and Culture that opened in East London in 1986 that focused on art and fashion made from recycled materials, with names like Derek Jarman, Boy George, and Cerith Wyn-Evans on their clientele.
Upstairs, the exhibition explores how Taboo's aesthetic shaped pop culture, from the trendiest magazines to the hottest stars of the moment. It also highlights the gender-defying and provocative nature of the era’s fashion—clearly ahead of its time compared to other industries—that represented a pivotal moment in LGBTQ+ history. With a focus on recycled materials and boundary-pushing designs, Outlaws: Fashion Renegades honours the creativity and legacy of Taboo’s renegades, whose bold vision continues to influence contemporary fashion today.
