“When I decided to present a capsule with the Paris Ass Book Fair in 2020, I didn’t know it would become Neith Nyer’s main project this year,” says the brand’s founder and creative director, Francisco Terra. “This may feel like a goodbye – I promise it is not. I can no longer cope with an industry built on abuse and consumerism, thriving on environmental destruction and perpetuating racial and gender-based injustice. Fashion has lost its political voice.”
With these harsh but heartfelt words, Francisco Terra says goodbye to working under the draconian ruling of the big corporations dominating the fashion industry, which has remained practically untouched these past decades. “In our new creative generation, we can work against this flow; weave a different way,” the designer says in an official statement uploaded to his Instagram page. As some big brands decide to step off the usual, ultra-packed calendar to present two or three collections per year instead of seven or eight, some independent brands and designers are taking these decisions further. “I want to give value back to expression, I want to be able to look back and be proud of the career I have built,” Francisco continues. “The only way to do this is to take a step back and respect the cadence of creativity. No more seasons, no more pressure.”

This bold decision is the result of a long period of reflection during quarantine. “I already had somewhere in the back of my mind the desire to find this new perspective on fashion, but as for so many, the lockdown changed everything.” After meeting “with loneliness, virtual relationships, memories, and most importantly, my untouched wardrobe,” Francisco aimed to explore his roots and heritage, connect with his inner self and land – “My clothes are reminiscent of where I come from: the dusty mountains of the Brazilian southeast.”

Thus, this artisanal collection features a wide range of inspirations spanning cowboys of Minas Gerais, rodeos, Globe of Death and off-road bikers, or the landscapes of his hometown. But as personal as it is in terms of emotion, the collection’s DNA is embedded in collaboration. “From my internal scars, my multilayered way of dressing, and my desire to collaborate and reconnect with my friends and family in the fashion industry, this body of work was designed.” And so, Neith Nyer invited to collaborate, among others, Palomo Spain, Levi’s, Tetier Bijoux, Alphonse Maitrepierre, Hardeman, Guerrisol, Lewis du Surget and Peter Jitenski.

Now freed from constraints, Francisco Terra can work as he pleases with the creatives he loves. “I want to recycle, up-cycle, play with femme and butch and look outside classical representations of gender. I want to dress people, address youth, and leave something meaningful for those after us. I want to sublimate the artisanal and find in my local community the know-how to build my collections. I want to collaborate, in the true sense of the word.”

But this collection doesn’t come alone; it’s launched together with Neith Nyer’s first e-commerce platform, which will also showcase a set of art objects, houseware and lecture (from his under development new manga, Maldito), made in collaboration with artists and artisans such as Alice Gavin, Clement Courgeon, Ian Wheelock, Laure-Anne Tchen, Celine Exbrayat, Robin Voisin and Antoine Caillet, among others. “All the proceeds will be donated to Casa Chama, a Brazilian association dedicated to supporting the Black trans community, particularly during these uncertain times for minorities,” Francisco explains.

As a final reflection, the multi-hyphenate creative states that “This lockdown gave an important moment to educate ourselves on contemporary social issues, act on political point of view, and rethink our creative beliefs. Neith Nyer was set free, and I am happy to share these images.” So what about the future of the brand and its founder? “We’ll meet once a year, maybe twice, to celebrate the joy of creating – sometimes with a show, sometimes not. So no, this is not a farewell, it’s hello for Neith Nyer Artisanal.”
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