MM6 Maison Margiela made a statement as the guest of honour at Pitti Uomo 107, unveiling a menswear collection that quite literally took the spotlight. Held in Florence’s historic Tepidarium Giacomo Roster, the show transformed the liberty-style greenhouse into a dark, evocative setting reminiscent of a gritty street or an abandoned hangar. Against this dramatic backdrop, the brand delivered a striking blend of melancholy and rebellion, with looks designed to dazzle under the glow of carefully orchestrated lighting.
Models moved like ethereal figures through a space bathed in shadow, their outfits illuminated by flashes of white, red, and green light. The predominantly black collection paid homage to Maison Margiela’s iconic 2006 Pitti Uomo show, which featured an all-white wardrobe. Here, however, darkness was the canvas, punctuated by unexpected bursts of colour: a turquoise lurex suit worn over bare skin, shimmering red-and-blue accents, and textured velvet pieces adorned with subtle star prints.
Miles Davis, captured in a photo wearing a fur coat and oversized sunglasses with a cigarette in hand, served as the muse for the collection. “Jazz has a visceral connection to fashion—it’s instantly cool,” explained a member of MM6’s anonymous creative team. The collection channelled this spirit through sharp tailoring and bold details, offering a wardrobe for the misunderstood poet or the cursed rock star.
The lineup featured versatile yet extravagant pieces: denim jackets with metallic accents, reversible faux-mink bombers, and Mackintosh coats reimagined in innovative textures like vinyl and synthetic leather. Accessories like gloves crafted in collaboration with Agnelle and a trumpet-shaped weekend bag added flair and functionality, completing the contemporary yet rebellious aesthetic.
“For us, it’s an incredible honour and opportunity to be part of Pitti Uomo. Florence is a magical city that has always brought us luck, where we’ve also showcased collections with Diesel and Marni,” said Renzo Rosso, founder and president of OTB. He also addressed the future of Maison Margiela’s main line, which recently bid farewell to its iconic creative director, John Galliano, after a decade at the helm. “The name of his successor will be announced at the right time. Meanwhile, we have an amazing internal design team,” he noted, recalling that “in the past, the brand remained active for four years without a creative director.”
MM6’s menswear, first introduced into the brand's universe three years ago, now accounts for a third of the brand’s sales, marking its evolution into a distinct entity within Maison Margiela. Distributed across 600 global retailers and 23 standalone boutiques, MM6 has established itself alongside competitors like Acne Studios and Loewe.
With its bold vision and innovative textures, MM6 Maison Margiela’s Pitti Uomo debut has firmly positioned the brand’s menswear as a force to be reckoned with. The collection will return to Milan in February, where MM6 will present its women’s collection alongside select menswear pieces, continuing its mission to redefine contemporary fashion.
