Season after season, Miu Miu reinterprets its own essence, introducing new elements while remaining firmly rooted in its identity. Rather than constantly seeking to become something else, it finds novelty within itself. Miuccia has always had this subtle way of making her collections say something about the person wearing them. For Spring/Summer 2027, it’s easy to imagine a group of girls who’ve raided a vintage store and put together their looks instinctively, dressing according to how each piece makes them feel rather than following any particular plan. Everything feels emotional and spontaneous: unironed, relaxed and comfortable.
It’s a well-known cliché that the older sister tends to be more organised, refined and well-behaved. The younger sister, on the other hand, is more chaotic, messy, experimental and cool. She’s not afraid to mix prints, play with different styles or even incorporate vintage pieces into the mix. You could say that Miu Miu is Prada’s little sister—and the two labels embody this dynamic to perfection. Miu Miu approaches fashion by drawing on its own identity to construct each collection from the ground up. The house elevates the most ordinary aspects of everyday life and makes them beautiful. After all, why create pieces that are already elevated when reality constantly surrounds us? Why not embrace it instead and make the effort to beautify it?
There’s something particularly interesting in the way the S/S 2027 collection elevates the tracksuit into a statement. It suggests that sportswear doesn’t necessarily have to look cheap or careless; it can also be elegant. Miu Miu transforms something deeply ordinary and familiar into something desirable, proving once again that elegance can come from the way we wear something rather than from the inherent value or refinement of the piece itself.
Perhaps this is what we might call ‘ugly chic’: a combination of mismatched prints and silhouettes that enhance the figure without adhering to any conventional ideal of beauty, but rather to the comfort and beauty inherent in the pieces themselves. The collection is largely built around elevated basics complemented by more distinctive pieces, such as the square-cut printed dresses that evoke the spirit of the 1970s. The same retro reference can be seen in the tracksuits and sunglasses. Nothing feels conventionally polished or overly constructed.
The collection can ultimately be understood through a series of clear Miu Miu signatures: ultra-cropped tops, tracksuits and sporty pieces, micro-shorts, mini and midi skirts, shirt-and-sweater combinations and tailored blazers. The tension between the more classic and the more relaxed elements creates a sense of duality that runs throughout the collection. This contrast is further emphasised through the styling, particularly the extensive use of layering, double waistbands and drawstrings running across the garments as functional yet decorative closures. Together, these elements build a distinctly preppy spirit while keeping it playful, relaxed and unmistakably Miu Miu.
The collaborations follow the same idea of transforming and elevating everyday garments. With Wrangler, Miu Miu reworks vintage denim, incorporating its signature cross-lacing detail. Meanwhile, its collaboration with New Balance reconstructs the RC150 racing shoe in technical mesh, combining sporty details with a more sophisticated aesthetic. Both collaborations extend the collection’s central idea of taking familiar, everyday pieces and reinterpreting them through the distinctive Miu Miu lens. Miuccia’s signature touch of sparkle is scattered throughout the final looks, adding a subtle sense of glamour as the show draws to a close.
The collection doesn’t only convey a distinctly youthful and natural spirit; the casting is equally intentional in communicating Miu Miu’s brand values. Bringing together established figures such as actors Olivia Colman, Katherine Waterston and Jamie Bell, and models such as Gigi Hadid and Liu Wen, alongside younger actors, musicians and emerging faces, the cast feels deliberately diverse in age, discipline and background.
Miuccia Prada consistently delivers when it comes to the storytelling behind her pieces and what they communicate about the woman who wears them. In this case, she leaves us with a vision of an innocent yet playful femininity, expressed through an effortless and carefree attitude. It carries the simple, almost ironic message of “I’m just a girl”, embracing femininity without overthinking it and finding beauty in the freedom to simply be oneself.
