Milan Men's Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2025 might be a wrap, but we can’t stop thinking about it. From Moschino’s satirical take on dress codes under newly appointed Creative Director Adrian Appiolaza to Martine Rose’s infectious fashion rave, the Italian city pulsated with vibrant energy. Some showed refined quiet luxury, like Prada, Gucci, Emporio Armani, and Marine Serre, while others took the more daring, innovative route, including Dsquared2, Jordanluca, and JW Anderson—whose collaboration with Guinness caught everyone’s eye. This season was a successful blend of elegance and innovation. Even if you missed it, it’s never too late to catch up with our selection.
We can’t get over Prada's Spring/Summer 2025 menswear collection by Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons, an escape from our perception of reality. Garments appear purposefully aged, juxtaposed with youthful cuts and vibrant colours, creating a striking visual contrast. Simple details transform upon closer inspection, such as a superhero sweater recontextualized for everyday wear. This collection is a celebration of youthful rebellion, a deliberate clash between past and present, comfort and chaos.
In this imaginative line, Prada proposed a new reality filled with freedom, optimism, and a touch of joyful rebellion. The collection redefines traditional aesthetics, inviting us to embrace a world where the old seamlessly blends with the new and where comfort coexists with chaos.
JW Anderson
JW Anderson took attendees on a surreal journey that blurred the lines between dream and reality. This collection is a masterclass in artistic distortion, where Jonathan Anderson challenges traditional proportions and infuses a playful, yet profound, sense of surrealism into each garment. The collection prompts observers to question the norms of fashion aesthetics as Anderson manipulates volumes and shapes.
Everyday items are whimsically transformed; for instance, loafers are exaggerated to the scale of bags, and balloons become recurring visual motifs throughout the pieces. This concept extends to the apparel itself, with garments featuring bending silhouettes and skewed volumes, enhancing the dream-like quality of the collection.
Knitwear plays a significant role, embodying the essence of a quintessentially British home—cosy and familiar yet innovative. The collaboration with Guinness, the iconic Irish brewer, further enriches the collection. This partnership is celebrated through specific looks, each incorporating the rich, creamy texture of Guinness foam into the designs. Some pieces feature heavy cotton sweatshirts with a smiling pint screen-printed onto the fabric, and the 'foam' is imaginatively recreated with lavish pearl embroidery, juxtaposing luxury with casual, everyday imagery.
Martine Rose
Martine Rose threw a chaotic fashion rave for her Spring/Summer 2025 collection. Discarded fabrics lined the runway, while pulsating music captured the energy of late-night London. The collection shattered conventional beauty standards with prosthetic noses and knotted wigs, yet amidst the deconstruction, there was palpable power. Strong sportswear, printed tops, and cascading satins created a striking tension.
Structural garments were simultaneously fragile and strong, reflecting Rose's exploration of unconventional allure. Rose wove a multifaceted story through her designs, with splashed suits and deconstructed baseball tops strung with rope that embodied her rebellious spirit, while workwear jackets, football shirts, and printed denim showcased diverse influences. The show also teased her upcoming collaboration with Clarks and hinted at a potential double-tongued Nike TN duo, leaving the audience eager for more. This was Martine Rose, unfiltered.
Living up to its name, #D2HEAT is a full-on sensory experience. The historic Teatro Lirico, usually home to operas and political cabarets, transformed into a stage for a "soft sado parade," as the Catens themselves described it. Sheer fabrics and latex met black leather and metallic accents, creating a captivating tension between delicate and bold. From skin-tight harnesses to S&M-inspired strappings, the collection channeled a daringly provocative energy—a "nod to Tom of Finland, but a delicate, soft Tom," as the designers put it.
The soundtracks—Prince's Cream and Erotic City—only added to the atmosphere, a clear homage to the Catens' own club kid roots in the exciting underground scene of the 80s. It was a fashion show that was more than just clothes; it was a full-blown experience that celebrated individuality.
Henrik Vibskov
Henrik Vibskov brought a deep message to Milan Fashion Week with his studio collection, The Orchestra of the Soft Assistance. Vibskov drew inspiration from the symbolic power of hands, representing empathy, support, and adaptability. Just as hands transform to perform various tasks, this philosophy was artfully embodied in the collection through fluid silhouettes, morphing patterns, and versatile pieces that could suit any situation. Classic checks were reinterpreted with oceanic waves, and knitwear patterns seamlessly dissolved, reflecting an evolution of style and function.
Beyond its aesthetic appeal, The Orchestra of the Soft Assistance encouraged a deeper reflection on how we could better connect with one another. True to Vibskov's spirit, the collection was also a reminder of sustainability, crafted from recycled or organic materials with a dedicated focus on reducing environmental impact. This thoughtful approach underscored Vibskov's commitment to using fashion as a medium for positive change.
Emporio Armani
Emporio Armani's collection reaffirmed its distinctive reign as a master of Italian menswear, juxtaposing the luxurious formality of Giorgio Armani with a more relaxed elegance. The show, held at Armani/Teatro, played a vivid tribute to equestrian lifestyles, featuring images of horses running freely through fields.
Around eighty looks were presented, each designed for both the equestrian competitor and the discerning observer. The collection showcased slouchy suits tied at the waist paired with sturdy riding boots, breezy knitwear designed for warm Italian summers, and pinstriped jumpsuits ideal for sophisticated getaways.
Adding a modern twist, the collection included collarless military jackets with subtle checkered patterns, bedazzled tanks, and distressed trousers exuding bohemian chic. The finale was a sensory delight, with dimmed lights and lavender fields projected on screens, filling the air with a floral aroma. Models paraded down the runway in an alfresco-inspired celebration, featuring shirtless men in leather straps and miniature shorts and women in 1920s-style floral dresses and slanted hats.
JordanLuca's collection had to be on this list of highlights. Going between the ethereal beauty of a ballerina and the cold, synthetic world that engulfs her. It's a ballet on acid, a beautiful yet unsettling exploration of desire and impermanence. Traditional ballet motifs like tutus are ripped, recast in black, and constructed from unexpected materials, creating a dark undercurrent to their delicate lines. The raw beauty of a rose is echoed in 3D-printed resin, a desperate attempt to preserve fleeting perfection.
The luxury extends throughout the collection, with silk blends glazed in plastic and tailored pieces given a synthetic sheen. For men, the paradox is even more pronounced. Japanese tweed jackets with antique buttons offer a touch of heritage, while metallic halter tops and zippered functionality hint at a more primal desire. It's a world where societal expectations clash with raw freedom, leaving a trail of shimmering contradictions in their wake.
Marine Serre
Marine Serre took centre stage at Pitti Uomo, showcasing her vision for menswear for the first time outside of Paris. Held in the beautiful Florentine hills, the collection moved away from her usual focus on ready-to-wear and embraced a more refined tailoring aesthetic.
Serre's men walked the runway in classic silhouettes—double suits, silk wool overcoats, and oversized shapes—rendered in black, red, grey, and camel tones. The brand's signature moon logo found its way onto air-brushed leather pieces, adding a touch of Marine Serre edge to the sophisticated tailoring. Womenswear took a couture turn, with draped jersey pieces, mesh accents, and tailored garments. The show closed on a peaceful note, with eight final looks in white, uniting both the menswear and womenswear collections in a message of love and unity.
Dhruv Kapoor
Dhruv Kapoor's took a step further by exploring the transformative journey from childhood to adulthood through fashion. The collection captures the essence of personal growth, with designs boldly reflecting themes of innocence, curiosity, and nostalgia. Kapoor emphasised oversized pieces reminiscent of borrowed dad shoes and sibling's clothes, alongside slouchy 90s fits, flared jeans, and summer jorts with a vintage touch. This nostalgic approach highlighted the playful and carefree aspects of youth, while the evolving styles symbolised the gradual transition to maturity.
The collection masterfully balanced raw and tailored elements, mixing giant and petite proportions and blending sophisticated yet rugged aesthetics. Signature elements of Dhruv Kapoor were there, like intricate handcrafted embroidery inspired by traditional Indian artefacts, doodled florals, and hand-painted grids.