Milan Fashion Week S/S 2025

One of the standout moments of the year has to be Matthieu Blazy’s shows. At Bottega Veneta, Blazy offered a nostalgic journey into childhood. He crafted a coming-of-age narrative that celebrated the joy and curiosity of everyday life, blending luxury craftsmanship with playful nods to youthful innocence.

Animal motifs, such as frog heels, bunny belts, and a leather trench coat with fish lapels, added a whimsical touch to the collection. The frog, a symbol of transformation, was featured in accessories like a brooch and necklace. Blazy brought a sense of modern life into the accessories with grocery bags and leather flowers, inspired by the everyday adventures of angsty teens, children wearing their parents' suits, and shoppers busy at the supermarket. Childhood dreams came to life with a leather bag inspired by a pink toy house.

Additionally, the Andiamo bag featured a top handle for ease of movement. Bottega Veneta's unparalleled luxury craftsmanship was showcased in new material experiments. A standout piece was a paillette evening dress made entirely from leather, a testament to the brand's innovative approach to materials. Beyond leather, merino wool was woven into jacquards and flannel, creating a luxurious and refined feel.

Arriving at the historical Triennale di Milano, the same destination for Gucci's Spring 2025 menswear show in June, Sabato de Sarno delivered his womenswear manifesto on an Ancora-tinged runway for next year's warmer months.

De Sarno's ready-to-wear was galvanised by the '60s, with architectural coats, A-line skirts, and shorts infusing the era's elements of Space Age sophistication, Swinging London's youthfulness, and Jackie Kennedy's class. The GG monogram commanded formal coats, which were kept casually grandeur in the same breath as tank tops and denim. Leather silhouettes acted as powerful armour, while lace dresses (and peeks of lingerie) adorned the Gucci woman's femininity. Overall, the colour story—Gucci Rosso Ancora, lime green, citrussy orange, white, and grey—was equal parts expressive and elegant.

Elsewhere, bamboo details punched myriad mini accessories, and Gucci's treasured Horsebit motif drew eyes to not only its 73 Bucket Bag or the Gucci Bamboo leather bag but also a legion of footwear: platforms, creepers, ballerinas, and ankle boots included. Lots of tradition to obsess over for long-time Gucci fans. 

If there's one thing for sure, it's that Prada's Spring/Summer 2025 womenswear collection was all about the past and the present. Held inside the Deposito at Fondazione Prada, the show provided a glimpse into the brand's vision for next year's fashion trends.

The collection emphasised a return to personal style, offering highly individual and anti-algorithm fashion. Raf Simons' influence was evident throughout, with many runway pieces drawing inspiration from Prada's archives. Miuccia Prada's forward-thinking approach was also on display as she introduced new trends for the upcoming season, including metallic wraparound sunglasses, visor hats, and avant-garde textiles. While previous collections often featured distinct throughlines, Spring/Summer 2025 embraced a more individualistic approach. Each model exuded a unique style, with looks ranging from dainty floral dresses paired with Mary Janes to worn-in leather dresses adorned with metal hardware. This disjointed approach suggested a return to personal expression in an era dominated by Internet algorithms.

The eyewear in the collection was particularly a highlight from the collection, with styles ranging from gargantuan bug-eyed lenses to layered shapes reminiscent of snow goggles. These futuristic designs complemented the exploratory apparel, which featured beaded skirts and cargo-pocketed tube tops. However, the collection remained grounded by retooled Prada classics, such as slouchy bomber jackets and trim polo shirts.

Francesco Risso’s latest Marni show was nothing short of new, delivering a collection that engaged us from start to finish. Evoking the ritualistic progression of classic runway shows, the presentation flowed seamlessly from sophisticated daywear to grand evening gowns, crafting a narrative of timeless elegance. Risso began with sleek, slender silhouettes in muted tones, punctuated by crisp black and white accents. Fitted blazers layered over leggings, backward-worn cropped chemises, and hourglass dresses with vertical pleats set a sharp and refined opening.

As the show progressed, the designs grew more voluminous, introducing broad-shouldered jackets and structured tuxedos paired with siren skirts, their ruched hems nodding to the glamour of 1950s couture. What stood out most was Risso’s inventive use of cotton, showcasing its versatility through a range of textures and weaves. For the finale? Bustier dresses and pannier skirts printed with oversized roses or adorned with shredded cotton feathers and shimmering crystals.

Creative director Andrea Grazioli looked to the ancestral cultural origins of the zigzag pattern, paying homage to its primal, rhythmic essence for this collection. To enhance the vibrant energy, Grazioli delved into the brand's archives, reviving a bold striped design originally created for the 1990 World Cup. This archival piece infused the collection with a dynamic chromatic spark, blending the house's rich history with a contemporary twist. The result was a celebration of tradition through a fresh, modern lens.

Ruth Asawa, an American artist known for her modernist looped-wire organic sculptures, served as the inspiration for Grazioli's tour de force. The zigzag motif was translated into a multitude of spiky 3D, triangular-shaped knitted forms that undulated, protruded, or unfolded in accordion-pleated spiral tops, minidresses, and leggings. Other equally spectacular pieces included dresses made from knotted ribbons, tunics covered in round sequins as big as CDs, and clingy jacquard sheaths adorned with fringes haphazardly placed like colourful brush strokes. Missoni's https://www.instagram.com/missoni/ expertise in knitwear was on full display, as they pushed the boundaries of the fabric to remarkable expressive limits.

Jil Sander had to be here. The collection was a nostalgic journey inspired by the work of Canadian photographer Greg Girard. The bold prints of 20th-century cars and neon-lit motel rooms, featured on boxy shirts and skirts, gave a vibrant and evocative element to the show.

The carpeted runway enhanced the nostalgic atmosphere, creating a sense of retro glamour. The collection opened with iridescent suiting, setting the tone for a collection that was both modern and timeless. Retro influences were evident throughout the collection, with dip-dyed sets, pastel dresses, and rib-knit separates featuring 3D floral embroidery and beaded hems. However, the show also incorporated contemporary striking and eye-catching elements, such as the glossy red trench and bouquet-printed black raincoat.

Maximillian Davis has once again redefined the Ferragamo legacy with a very special show that weaves together the brand's storied past with his own vision. Drawing deeply from Ferragamo’s historical ties to ballet—where Salvatore Ferragamo designed shoes for icons like Katherine Dunham and Rudolf Nureyev—Davis paid homage to this heritage while pushing the boundaries of modern fashion. The show featured elegant form-fitting leotards, flowing silk dresses, and sculptural outerwear that echoed the grace and discipline of ballet, all while incorporating elements of Davis’s own narrative and design ethos.

Menswear pieces inspired by Nureyev's signature louche sensuality brought forth delicate suiting and draped trench coats, perfectly balancing tradition with a contemporary edge. With impeccable draping techniques and a blend of classical and modern aesthetics, Davis delivered one of the standout shows of the season.

Sunnei's Spring/Summer 2025 collection marked a departure from the brand's usual shock tactics. While previous seasons were known for their outrageous stunts, this show focused on a more introspective exploration of the brand's identity, as this collection arrives in time to celebrate the 10th anniversary of the brand. The designers Simone Rizzo and Loris Messina acknowledged the distortion of time and the loss of a sense of chronology in today's world. This theme was reflected in the age of the models, who were significantly older than those on neighbouring runways, representing the brand's time-twisting agenda.

The clothing, dubbed "smart wear," was eccentric and sophisticated. Bold colours, snobbish stripes, and daring dimensions defined the line's style codes. While the brand initially considered using artificial intelligence to design a futuristic dystopian world, they ultimately opted for a more personal approach. Messina's mother's artwork from the '80s provided the inspiration for the line's illustrative identity. The collection also featured illusory bags made entirely of paper, serving as an ironic challenge for viewers to spot on the runway. However, the shoewear, with their multi-toned design, was a real highlight, offering a balance of wearability, aesthetics, and detail. The collaboration with Camper also resulted in four eye-catching footwear styles with double-sole designs.

Set in Milan's Forza e Coraggio sports arena, the Avavav show merged the absurd with the athletic in a way that felt more like a social experiment than a fashion presentation. Models struggled to maintain a running pace, some even stopping to chat on their phones or express frustration. It was a jarring contrast to the carefully curated, high-stakes atmosphere typically associated with fashion shows.

Despite the chaotic backdrop, the collaboration with adidas Originals was a highlight. Creative director Beate Karlsson's playful approach to the iconic brand resulted in a collection that was nostalgic and innovative. The oversized silhouettes, shrunken hoodies, and waterfall pants echoed a Balenciaga-esque aesthetic, while the four-toed boots, tabi-style mittens, and upcycled bags offered a unique and unexpected twist. The colour palette of black, white, and red added a striking visual element, and the gothic architectural references transformed into intriguing veils, bandaged two-pieces, and headdresses.

Every season, Diesel delivers something unexpected, and the Spring/Summer 2025 show was no exception. The brand's runway show, set amidst a stunning backdrop of 14,800 kg of denim scraps, was just a message of their commitment to sustainability and innovation. Creative Director Glenn Martens took denim to new heights, transforming it into a versatile and exciting fabric. From micro denim shorts with exaggerated fringes to distressed chambray slip dresses and leather jackets that mimicked the texture of denim, with intricate devoré jacquard techniques adding depth and texture to cotton sweatshirts, mini dresses, and tank tops. The addition of Prince of Wales checks, featured on everything from bikinis to long-sleeved dresses, brought a touch of classic elegance to the collection.

Accessories, including the Play-Double-D bag adorned with iconic bandana prints and their statement platform shoes with transparent soles, complemented the collection perfectly. Even the eyewear developed in collaboration with Luxottica stayed true to the distressed aesthetic with its tumbled and sculpted designs.