When the heat finally reaches even the coldest city, you know a new season is underway, and with it, the start of menswear fashion weeks. Milan opened the calendar this time around, and even with the sweltering temperatures and a schedule that moved faster than the eye could follow, a handful of shows managed to slow things down and actually say something. Some leaned into pure craft, others into nostalgia, and a few into something closer to provocation, but each found its own way of answering the same question every house faces every season: what does it mean to dress a man right now? Here's a look back at the collections worth remembering from Milan Menswear S/S 2027.
Prada
Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons returned for another season, this time stripping Spring/Summer 2027 menswear back to its most universal garments: tight trousers, a T-shirt, a blazer, and a leather blouson, staged on a transparent Perspex runway lit from below, a literal blank canvas. "No useless design, one idea", as Miuccia put it, the focus landing on a clean silhouette and how it picks up small additions: a print, an accessory, or a colour. Sheer fabrics and a return to a skinnier shape echoed Raf's own language, softened in places by oversized blazers and knits. The Prada triangle logo got reduced to three snap buttons on jacket collars, while fresh oranges and anise greens sat between archival Prada and something new. Belted, buckled footwear and leather chalk-pouch belt bags closed it out.
Ralph Lauren
After so much legacy, the real question for a heritage house is where to go next, and Ralph Lauren's answer was simple: understand a good uniform, then translate it into a collection. Perfectly tailored suits got their edge from prints and pins, elevating the expected into something worth a second look, while denim tailoring emerged as the collection's most talked-about move. Sweaters and colourful prints leant into a more casual proposal, where relaxed silhouettes, patterns and styling were anything but introverted; the more pieces layered together, the better. Patched denim, flag-patched vests and jackets carried that same effortless energy, finished off with caps and straw hats.
Thom Browne
Thom Browne returned to Milan Fashion Week for the first time in almost two decades, presenting Spring/Summer 2027 at Palazzo Serbelloni after seasons spent in Paris and at San Francisco's Legion of Honour museum. This time felt much lighter, and yes, it's the tailoring. Technical nylon seersucker, open-weave cotton suiting and unlined sport coats leant into an American preppy mood, with his usual grey and navy picking up yellow, green and sky blue. Garden details ran through it all: embroidered bees, frogs and dragonflies, finished off with boater hats, beekeeper veils and a bride closing the show in pearl-beaded tulle. After the aliens and the retrospective, this felt like Browne pulling focus back to his core.
Saul Nash
The best way to define Saul's collection? Sportswear meets tailoring. Staged inside Milan's Forza e Coraggio gymnastics society, STANCE pulled from wrestling singlets and equestrian uniforms to explore masculinity through movement. Compression tops, lightweight nylons and mesh knits played against softer, more relaxed tailoring, the whole thing reading technical without ever feeling cold. Nothing about it screamed for attention; it just quietly nailed the balance between performance and ease. Smart partnerships too, like Lululemon, Oakley, Creed, and a new APICCAPS x TOWORKFOR boat shoe all tied into the same language. Easily one of the clearest visions in Milan this season.
Shinyakozuka
Shinya's show was another highlight, because it felt like walking home with blurred vision. The Japanese designer made his debut on the Milan men's calendar after staging Pitti Uomo's guest show in Florence, and this time drew on the hazy familiarity of his own Tokyo commute. Watercolour-like landscape prints of his Tokyo neighbourhood washed over mint green pyjama silhouettes, Bermuda shorts and slashed-back overshirts. Bare-chested looks under billowing sheer coats in teal, paired with baggy white trousers, gave the whole show an unexpectedly summery, intimate feel.
Setchu
Satoshi Kuwata unveiled SETCHU's Spring/Summer 2027 collection, Caught in the Nets, expanding on the brand's origami-led construction through a new motif: the net as a lens to examine protection versus exposure, and masculinity versus femininity. The show opened with an oversized net of black leather cords draped over the model's head and body, tied using the traditional Japanese Manmusubi knot, simultaneously concealing and revealing the silhouette beneath. Circular cutouts pierced the brand's signature flat, rectangular garments, pushing the ongoing dialogue between structure and fluidity, while trousers and coats left their basting stitches exposed, finding beauty in the unfinished.
