MICAM Milano has just said goodbye to its last edition, and we can now confirm it has been a complete success. The international footwear exhibition held its last call at Fiera Milano (Rho) from February 18 to 21, capturing the attention of professionals in the sector from all over the world, as the Chair of MICAM and Assocalzaturifici, Giovanna Ceolini, tells us. We spoke with her to learn more about the trends for next season, the footwear industry forecasts for the next few months or the very interesting conclusions we’ve extracted from the panels led by some of the top experts in the field.
“I have long advocated the importance of bringing the younger generation closer to our productive sector,” says Ceolini in the interview that you can read below, in a plea in favour of technology and updated learning processes. These were, along with digitalisation and sustainability, some of the key elements of the last edition of MICAM. The President does send a strong message to all her colleagues in the sector. “Invest in human capital and training. Only then can we meet the global challenges of the future.”
Being cautious when asked about the sector’s growth forecasts due to the international conflicts currently plaguing the world, Ceolini is impressed by the decision of the creative participants in the Emerging Designers area to focus on recycled materials. “The production paradigm has really changed,” she adds. And it is precisely because of the ongoing transformation the sector is experiencing that MICAM is more necessary than ever.
Giovanna, nice to talk to you again. The most recent edition of MICAM Milano has just concluded. What’s your balance on this call?
The fair went well, we are happy with it. The fashion trade fairs, MICAM Milano, MIPEL, The One Milano and Milano Fashion&Jewels, welcomed a total of 40,821 trade visitors, 45% of whom came from abroad. In particular, from the European Union, France, Germany, Spain and Greece recorded the best performances; from non-European markets, positive results came from Japan, China, Kazakhstan and the United Kingdom.
You’ve said that the February event is not only a sort of annual check-up for the footwear sector but also an unmissable opportunity to preview the trends in a sector. Could you tell us about the trends you noticed in the last few days?
Four macro-trends emerged at MICAM. Tender Frost, it’s an ode to the delicate beauty embedded in our human vulnerability, revealing the strength that emerges when we acknowledge our own fragility. The pastel and off-white colour palette evokes the imagery of delicate winter frost. The materials for this trend create a tactile symphony, weaving a harmony between strength and fragility, mirroring the intricate balance that each of us bears.
Highland Lodge, a gateway to a bygone era, immersed in nostalgia, bucolic tradition and timeless charm. The colour palette weaves a rich tapestry of earthy tones mirroring the open countryside landscapes and evoking feelings of warmth, comfort, and enduring style. The materials narrate a tale of craftsmanship, with patchwork and natural leather lending texture, while intricate fretwork patterns and embroidered elements pay homage to the past.
Lunar Realm envisions the future by blending engineering comfort with a dash of cosmic elegance. The palette, comprised of greys, dusks, mints and blues, mirrors the mysteries of the universe. Cutting-edge technical materials, metallic accents, and transparent fabrics serve as a testament to innovation and modernity.
And Afterworld, a trend emerging from the remnants of Off-Grid +79%, a post-apocalyptic realm of outlaws, rebellion and black magic. The shoes tell a story of resilience and adversity, encapsulating the essence of those individuals who thrive in the shadows. The colour palette vividly illustrates a gritty landscape with earthy tones, deep blacks and intense red hues, a warm spectrum that echoes a world forever altered.
Highland Lodge, a gateway to a bygone era, immersed in nostalgia, bucolic tradition and timeless charm. The colour palette weaves a rich tapestry of earthy tones mirroring the open countryside landscapes and evoking feelings of warmth, comfort, and enduring style. The materials narrate a tale of craftsmanship, with patchwork and natural leather lending texture, while intricate fretwork patterns and embroidered elements pay homage to the past.
Lunar Realm envisions the future by blending engineering comfort with a dash of cosmic elegance. The palette, comprised of greys, dusks, mints and blues, mirrors the mysteries of the universe. Cutting-edge technical materials, metallic accents, and transparent fabrics serve as a testament to innovation and modernity.
And Afterworld, a trend emerging from the remnants of Off-Grid +79%, a post-apocalyptic realm of outlaws, rebellion and black magic. The shoes tell a story of resilience and adversity, encapsulating the essence of those individuals who thrive in the shadows. The colour palette vividly illustrates a gritty landscape with earthy tones, deep blacks and intense red hues, a warm spectrum that echoes a world forever altered.
“Some studies predict that in 2030, the weight of the global footwear market will reach USD 220 billion, as compared to USD 163.2 billion last year, an average annual growth rate of 3.8%,” you replied the last time we spoke when we asked you about the growth that the sector is expected to experience in the next few years. Have any significant changes been noticed in recent months?
The market is constantly evolving, but at the moment we cannot launch into such long-term forecasts, as the economic situation affected by the conflicts in Russia and Gaza risks nullifying any estimates.
I’m very interested in knowing how you approached sustainability, something that must be analysed in detail and urgently in the fashion and footwear industry, in the last edition of MICAM. Could you tell us more about it? Do you think that professionals in the sector are increasingly aware of the importance of implementing sustainable production practices and processes? And what about consumers, do they assign more and more importance to sustainability in their purchasing decisions?
Sustainability is one of the key drivers for our industry. The ecological transition has affected the industry significantly, and consumers’ changed approach to purchasing is leading companies to review their scope of action. People are becoming more and more environmentally and socially aware nowadays, and are even prepared to pay a premium price for products that meet certain parameters. In this scenario, Assocalzaturifici, which has always been attentive to the trends of footwear companies, wanted to offer the market a state-of-the-art environmental certification: VCS. High-tech partners are involved in this project, such as CIMAC, a laboratory specialised in testing for the footwear and fashion industry, which ensures product quality and excellence and compliance with global standards, ICEC - Institute for Quality Certification for the Tanning Industry, and the consultancy company Spin 360.
VCS promotes awareness among companies on the importance of adopting a comprehensive sustainability strategy by working on internal processes, traceability of the supply chain, collection and organisation of information, and the activation of a system of procedures for improvement and advancement with respect to the most widespread international sustainability parameters and standards. The scheme consists of four basic elements: the harmonisation of sustainability requirements, a support tool, advisory support for companies, and acknowledgement on the market through certification. The interest expressed by many important footwear companies and large fashion groups confirms the validity of this project.
VCS promotes awareness among companies on the importance of adopting a comprehensive sustainability strategy by working on internal processes, traceability of the supply chain, collection and organisation of information, and the activation of a system of procedures for improvement and advancement with respect to the most widespread international sustainability parameters and standards. The scheme consists of four basic elements: the harmonisation of sustainability requirements, a support tool, advisory support for companies, and acknowledgement on the market through certification. The interest expressed by many important footwear companies and large fashion groups confirms the validity of this project.
We cannot fail to mention the very interesting interview panel you led with prominent international speakers including Giuseppe Stigliano, Global CEO of Spring Studios, and Matthew Drinkwater, Director of Fashion Innovation Agency, among others. How can footwear industry professionals take advantage of these talks?
We discussed the most topical issues in the sector. MICAM is an irreplaceable opportunity for professional updating. It is no coincidence that our seminars are always full. This confirms the quality of our offering. In a world like today where everything goes fast and changes are sudden, we cannot and must not lag behind. People of this calibre who have visions, who analyse every aspect of technology and innovation by downloading messages on the ground that may appear visionary are useful for us entrepreneurs who are sometimes too focused on the product.
The last day of this MICAM call focused on education and the younger generation. Do you think young people are increasingly interested in the footwear industry?
I have long advocated the importance of bringing the younger generation closer to our productive sector. With digital technologies, we have all the premises to encourage young people to enter the industry, with technologies more appropriate to their age. At the development and modelling level, there are many jobs and specialisations geared towards technology and digital for young people who want to work in-house.
While fashion is glamorous, factory work on the other hand often has no appeal at first glance. It is up to us to make young people fall in love with and change their minds about a profession that can offer so much satisfaction at a time when access to the world of work is extremely difficult. We must therefore show the outside world what we do, show that factory work no longer has anything of the manual heritage of the past but is a technological profession projected into the future.
While fashion is glamorous, factory work on the other hand often has no appeal at first glance. It is up to us to make young people fall in love with and change their minds about a profession that can offer so much satisfaction at a time when access to the world of work is extremely difficult. We must therefore show the outside world what we do, show that factory work no longer has anything of the manual heritage of the past but is a technological profession projected into the future.
Last year, we talked about the Emerging Designers area, which has now hosted twelve creatives from all over the world selected by a jury of fashion industry experts. What surprised you most about the proposals you have received?
They were all proposals of the highest level. I was very impressed by the decision to focus on recycled materials. The focus is on sustainability and saving energy. The production paradigm has really changed.
If you had to define this edition of MICAM in just three words, what would they be?
The three words are: sustainable, digital and futuristic.
And what message would you like to send to all professionals in the footwear industry?
Invest in human capital and training. Only then can we meet the global challenges of the future.
