Only two days before MICAM Milano's new edition kicks off, we speak with Giovanna Ceolini, Chair of MICAM Milano and Assocalzaturifici, whom we last interviewed at METAL in September last year. The international footwear trade show is now ready to return to Fiera Milano from 23 to 25 February in a very special edition that will feature more than 850 brands, which, as the President says, is the concrete translation of their commitment to offer the very best of the international footwear industry to a professional audience that comes from all over the world. Keep reading to learn more about their upcoming call.
Giovanna, it’s a pleasure to speak with you again. Thank you for taking the time to talk with us; I’m sure these days leading up to the start of MICAM Milano are extremely busy, aren’t they?
They truly are days full of commitments. We are finalising every detail to launch a MICAM edition brimming with innovations—not only on the exhibition front but also regarding the conference and congress segment dedicated to professional development.
From 23 to 25 February, MICAM Milano, the international footwear trade show, returns to Fiera Milano in a very special edition that will feature more than 850 brands. There is a tremendous amount of work behind this event, which brings together many of the world’s most acclaimed professionals in the industry. Could you tell us more about the steps you follow to organise a fair of this magnitude?
The preparation for an event of this scale, with such a significant number of exhibitors, cannot be improvised. We begin working on it as soon as the previous edition ends. This effort unfolds on multiple fronts—from gathering the exhibitors and holding institutional meetings to defining the content. These elements are fundamental not only to set the schedule for conferences and presentations but also to lay the groundwork for our communication campaign, which spans both the mainstream and specialised press.
In this edition as well, the presence of international brands is very balanced with that of Italian brands, with a slight predominance of the latter. Is this one of the most important premises for MICAM today? How are you working to achieve greater globalisation of this project?
There are 853 brands in total, 415 Italian and 438 international from 28 countries. These numbers, which encapsulate the scope of our exhibitors, make me particularly proud. They are the concrete translation of our commitment to offer, in every edition, the very best of the international footwear industry to a professional audience that comes from all over the world. At MICAM, one can literally experience both the present and the future of the industry. It’s where the trends that will characterise the footwear of upcoming collections—in terms of both style and materials—are unveiled ahead of time.
This year, MICAM Milano will celebrate the ability of shoemakers to continuously renew, evolve, and grow. Could you tell us more about the event’s leitmotif and why it is important to highlight the value of these professionals through international events?
We have chosen to dedicate this year’s institutional campaign to the extraordinary people who drive the footwear industry forward. Their craftsmanship, expertise, and profound knowledge leave a lasting impact. Footwear makers are the guardians of an ancient tradition, yet they lead the way in constant innovation. Season after season, they transform their heritage by introducing cutting-edge materials, pioneering techniques, and boldly shaping the future of design and style—all while embracing sustainability. They are the ones rewriting the rules of the game. That’s why we are celebrating them as true “game changers.” It is no coincidence that they are the protagonists of our new communication campaign.
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I understand that the footwear industry is going through a difficult period, following last year’s decline in both exports and revenue, along with a drop in production. Why is this happening, and how should the industry respond to this phenomenon?
The Italian footwear industry closed 2024 with a decline in exports (-8.4% in value) and turnover, which stood at € 13.21 billion (-9.4%, almost € 1.4 billion less than in 2023). In addition to production—which slowed to 124.1 million pairs (-16.1%)—both the number of employees (-3.8%) and companies (-5.5%) decreased. The year that just ended was characterised from the very beginning by a marked reduction in orders, which, in an atmosphere of great uncertainty due to exogenous causes—including geopolitical tensions, a renewed increase in energy costs, and a slowdown in major economies—significantly impacted even the luxury industry. This has had repercussions on the production processes of fashion multinationals that manufacture in Italy, the driving force behind the recovery following the pandemic emergency. I hope that within the current year, we will see a vigorous restart for footwear companies, which represent one of the crucial industries for Made in Italy.
“However, forecasts indicate a gradual market improvement by the end of the year, with recovery prospects driven by the industry's capacity for innovation and resilience.” was stated a few days ago. What message would you send to all the professionals in the sector during this particularly challenging time?
We must rely on the unique mix that has made the Italian footwear industry great and, at the same time, makes our shoes the most coveted in the world—the very products for which consumers are willing to pay more. This means combining our fine artisanal tradition with the quality of raw materials and strict adherence to every stage of the supply chain. After all, sustainability is now an indispensable factor in purchasing decisions. To attempt to compete on the international stage with a philosophy different from ours would be a fatal mistake.
In just over six months, MICAM will reach the ambitious milestone of its 100th edition. I’m sure there will be many new initiatives and special surprises to celebrate this significant moment. Can you tell us anything about what we can expect from the September edition?
It will undoubtedly be a great edition, full of many surprises. But for now, our focus remains on the February MICAM.
Art, Fashion, Heritage and Future, Trends and Materials, Sustainability, and The Future of Retail will be the four key thematic areas of MICAM X, the innovation hub of MICAM Milano this year. Which experts will take the stage to share their insights and reflect on the future of the industry?
Returning again in this edition is the MICAM X area, the innovation hub of MICAM Milano, curated by Spin360, which is once again dedicated to important aspects of product evolution. The international voices include Michael Ferraro, Executive Director of the FIT Design and Technology Lab (DTech) at the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York, who is committed to involving faculty and students in solving industrial problems through design and technology—creating a bridge between industry and academia; and Jack Stratten, a highly experienced writer and researcher specialising in retail trends who has worked with Insider Trends since its inception, delivering presentations and key speeches around the world on every aspect of retail—from stores to the supply chain to omnichannel strategies and sustainability.
Also returning is the presentation of the trends identified by WGSN, which will characterise numerous appointments within MICAM X. Once again, at the centre of the stage will be the “Trends Buyer’s Guide” developed by Livetrend, created with the contribution of Artificial Intelligence that analysed social media data flows and other variables to process the styles and trends for upcoming seasons, offering an innovative vision of the future through the winning combination of human and digital creativity.
I’m very interested in the Future of Retail, a space focused on innovative ideas that will shape the future of retail, which will host four companies offering advanced solutions of interest to the footwear sector, with a focus on 3D technology: AQuest, Proke, Threedium, and WoV Labs. Why did you choose these four projects?
AQuest combines creativity and technology to craft digital experiences that connect brands with people on a deeper level. It offers a comprehensive range of services—from Visual & Interaction Design to web campaigns, online portals, e-commerce solutions, mobile app development, and Animation Motion Design. It is the most awarded digital agency in Italy. Proke uses a wearable measuring device and an app to collect precise data, ensuring the perfect fit for garments. Threedium is driving the e-commerce revolution with advanced 3D product configurators and immersive 3D viewers. Its innovative SaaS platform enables global brands to create highly engaging online shopping experiences.
By seamlessly integrating product configurators, 3D viewers, and augmented reality into e-commerce websites, it aims to transform the way consumers interact with products across all devices. WoV Labs introduces an innovative solution designed to enhance transparency and direct interaction between manufacturers and end customers—the Digital Product Passport. This advanced and scalable system leverages blockchain technology and smart tags to provide a secure, traceable, and fully digital product identity.
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And what can you tell us about the Italian Startup area, which provides a platform for young Italian companies that are creating unique and original proposals?
It is the stage for young Italian companies to create a series of unique, original proposals. The area is set up in collaboration with StylelT with the support of ICE and MAECI, and the start-ups presented will be: Lubello, RE49 and Yush. Lubello redefines luxury in women’s footwear, offering a collection that embodies bold innovation and striking originality. Guided by the vision of Creative Director Luca Lubello, each pair is not only a statement of style but also a testament to the meticulous quality and heritage that have made Italian footwear famous around the world.
RE49 is a footwear brand created with iconic materials recovered and recycled directly—such as boat sails, deckchairs, and beach umbrellas from Italian beaches. It unites artisanal tradition, circular economy, sustainability, technology, and Italian design. It was in 1949 that Valentino Masolini founded his footwear company in the province of Udine, starting his business by recycling materials collected from barracks abandoned after World War II. In 2020, Nicola, the fourth generation, decided to return to the origins by launching an entirely circular economy brand, RE49.
Yush is a leader in the luxury footwear sector, merging the excellence of Italian craftsmanship with advanced technological solutions derived from in-depth scientific research. Handcrafted in Florence with the highest quality materials, the shoes embody both elegance and innovation. Each model integrates smart, 3D-printed insoles and IoT sensors, along with exclusive electrostimulation technology controllable via a Bluetooth app—developed to optimise physical well-being, improve circulation, and reduce fatigue.
It is crucial to connect with younger generations through innovative and engaging formats. This is precisely the goal of the Academy Area—a space designed to immerse young people in the world of footwear through a series of initiatives that offer the opportunity to explore every facet of this industry, from design and shoemaking techniques to the personalisation of accessories. Are more and more young people becoming interested in the footwear industry?
It is an entire space designed to bring young people closer to the world of footwear. The Academy will unfold through a series of initiatives organized to offer the opportunity to explore the footwear industry in all its facets—from design and the techniques of shoe creation to the customisation of accessories. On display will be the craftsmanship of young artisans and their know-how, ready to inspire future generations through an initiative curated by Alessandro Zannoni. There will also be many technological proposals, from Stoll knitting machines that add unique finishes to both athletic and luxury footwear to 3D printing of outsoles by Puntozero and Direct3D using futuristic materials, and even the opportunity to discover the footwear production processes through virtual reality—thanks to headsets provided by the European project Metaskills4 TCLF, exclusively premiered at MICAM.
At the heart of the Academy Area is also an initiative to spark the creativity of young people in a dedicated workshop space: the opportunity to create personalised hoods and post them by tagging @micam.milano and using the hashtag #micamacademy2025. Furthermore, confirming MICAM’s strong commitment to education, the education panel—which will take place on Tuesday, 25 February at 11:30 in MICAMX—will feature the great Ferragamo through the narrative of Stefania Ricci, Director of the Ferragamo Museum and head of cultural events worldwide. Needless to say, youth and education are a fundamental component of my agenda as president because they ensure the continuity of the excellence of our industrial heritage.
We cannot overlook one of MICAM’s flagship initiatives, the Emerging Designers area, which will once again host twelve creatives from around the world selected by a panel of fashion industry experts. What would you highlight about the brands selected in this edition?
The Emerging Designers area will once again host twelve creatives from all over the world selected by a jury of fashion industry experts. Sustainability and originality are the keywords of the collections presented: recycled or recyclable materials and attention to the production chain, as well as style and personality, are just some of the features of the shoes that will be on show. The creative designers who will be featured at the upcoming edition of MICAM are Daphne Wattiez (Akvo brand), Ardemia de'Gennaro (Ardemia brand), Guido Aldera (Babù Milano brand), Cecilia Bringheli and Sibilla de Vuono (CB Made in Italy brand), Cristiano Magnoni (Crimagno Earth brand), Giacomo Morelli (Gio*Milano brand), Guillaume Mesly d'Arloz (Meeko brand), Corine Ferrer (O.Sur brand), Francesca Parisi (Parisy brand), Sabina Teruel (Sabinis brand), Alberto Tassinari and Francisco Batta (Sistta brand), and Lello Romano (Sneark brand).
Final question: what message would you like to send to the world during this turbulent time that humanity is experiencing?
My message is to achieve, as soon as possible, a state of peace and tranquillity, which is the necessary condition to ensure progress and development for our society.
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