Marc Jacobs brings gratitude into his Spring 2027 collection, presenting his latest work at the New York Public Library in a season that reads as a full study in colour. Marc has been everywhere in the culture lately, from the comeback of his namesake beauty line to Marc by Sofia, Sofia Coppola's intimate documentary on his life and work, to the book and the string of viral videos he has posted. Between all of it, one thing is clear: nobody does it quite like him, in every sense of the word.
His prior outing for Fall 2026, Memory. Loss., was a study in restraint: a doll-like exaggeration of straight-edged silhouettes, with square miniskirts and unshaped dresses that masked the body rather than flattering it, all set against a muted, pared-back palette punctuated only by circular blush and powder blue eyeshadow. It was a bittersweet, inward-looking show, built on a note about memory and loss, and it left the impression of a designer working through something quieter than usual.
For Spring 2027, Jacobs used his show notes to write about recognising abundance even in uncertain moments, framing the act of creating itself as a form of thanks, and once again credited the runway shows and eras that shaped him, from Yves Saint Laurent and Chanel's Spring 1993 collections to Junya Watanabe's Spring 1996 and his own archive.
This collection traded that severity for a full-blown celebration of hue: translucent skirts let crimson tights burn through underneath, bold pastels butted up against deep jewel tones, and unlikely combinations of black, orange, powder blue and scarlet ran through look after look. The body reasserted itself too, with fitted shapes replacing last season's boxiness, miniskirts cut close at the hip, tank dresses laced with PVC fringe, and tanks layered over polka-dot pleated skirts that echoed his own Spring 1998 and Spring 2000 work.
Transparency held the whole thing together: sheer organza, mesh and nylon base layers peeked out beneath '70s-inflected jackets, tights and piled-on triple-chain belts borrowed from the spirit of '90s Chanel, while pared-down heeled sandals and slicked hair left nothing to compete with the layering.
