Luis De Javier unleashes his fashion utopia with his Spring/Summer 2024 collection, La Ruta del Bacalao, during Los Angeles Fashion Week. A protégé of the esteemed Riccardo Tisci, De Javier embarks on an evolutionary journey, embracing ready-to-wear ensembles that fuse bold, accessible pieces with genderless silhouettes. Drawing inspiration from Spain’s ‘90s hardcore rave movement, La Ruta del Bakalao, silenced by an oppressive government, De Javier envisions a utopia where this vibrant culture thrives today.
The collection serves as a reflection, a catalyst for dialogue, and a questioning of pressing socio-political issues, including the rise of nationalism and far-right politics gripping Spain and the world. “Fashion has always been a mirror to society's challenges and triumphs,” De Javier shares. “With this collection, we aim to ignite conversations and shed light on issues that demand attention, sparking a fierce dialogue that challenges the status quo.” Renowned for his avant-garde creations, De Javier’s fearlessness has attracted a legion of celebrity fans, including Beyoncé, Rihanna, Rosalía, Julia Fox and Naomi Campbell.
The Spanish-born and London-based fashion designer has been making waves since graduating with honours from Westminster University in 2018. Under the guidance of icons Dame Vivienne Westwood and Gareth Pugh, De Javier honed his design skills, specialising in draping and cutting. His brand was launched in February 2020, making a powerful debut during London Fashion Week that garnered widespread acclaim.
De Javier's collaboration with Tisci stems from a serendipitous meeting at a small dinner celebrating Steven Klein’s photography exhibition in London. After seeing De Javier’s designs and recognising his strong talent, Tisci decided to become a mentor for the emerging designer. Both Central Saint Martins alumni, they share a Gothic sensibility and a commitment to championing Queer culture and diversity through their designs.
Their collaborative process is marked by open communication and mutual respect. Tisci recognises De Javier as the creator, refraining from imposing his own design ideas. Their friendship and mentorship have flourished through constant exchange of ideas, even while Tisci was on holiday in Africa and De Javier was preparing for his previous show in New York. Along with mentorship, Tisci is helping with casting and styling.
Channeling a newfound fearlessness that transcends boundaries of queerness and gender, De Javier's designs beckon to women and men alike, daring them to embrace their individuality and provoke the status-quo. Twenty-five looks walked down the runway accompanied by the raving sound of LSDXOXO. The Spanish designer is on the threshold of a new chapter, focusing on accessible ready-to-wear garments, and genderless silhouettes made out of a captivating melange of latex, leather, and corsetry, expertly curated to create an electrifying visual narrative.
Through his designs, De Javier invites us all to embark on a journey of self-expression, individuality, and unapologetic rebellion against the confines of conventional fashion. La Ruta del Bacalao collection provokes thoughtful reflection and dialogue. It challenges established norms, highlights diversity, and empowers individuals. With Tisci’s guidance, De Javier leaves a lasting mark on the fashion industry, showcasing his ability to tell stories through fashion and inspire the next generation of creatives.
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