London Fashion Week SS 2025

Chopova Lowena's collection was a daring blend of American and Victorian sartorial influences. Designers Emma Chopova and Laura Lowena-Irons drew inspiration from the vibrant legacies of rodeo queens and showgirls from the American West, merging these iconic symbols with the grandeur of Victorian theatre and costume. The result? A striking juxtaposition of rugged denim and leather outerwear adorned with studs and spurs contrasting with ethereal ruffles, corsets, and bloomers. This blend of toughness and theatricality extends beyond the traditional, weaving in medals, braided belts, and frills to evoke the opulent elegance of the Victorian era.

Adding to the collection's eclecticism are two standout collaborations. The Margaret bag, created in partnership with Hellmann's. Designed to carry a jar of mayonnaise, it features a Victorian silver spoon and a vintage blue charm. In another collaboration, Chopova Lowena teamed up with ASICS to produce a special edition of the GEL Quantum 360 VIII sneakers, embellished with butterflies, rhinestones, and flowers.

Inspired by pioneering female fighters like Jane Couch and Laila Ali, Yuhan Wang presented a collection that celebrated femininity and athleticism in a way that is visually and emotionally resonant. The collection is a striking juxtaposition of masculine sporting elements and feminine details. From boxing gloves and face masks to delicate lace and flowing skirts, it is a reflection of the strength and resilience of female athletes, who often face challenges in a male-dominated sport. It also featured a range of other athletic-inspired pieces, such as tracksuits, hoodies, and sneakers. However, Wang's signature touch was evident in the feminine details that adorned these pieces, such as lace, embroidery, and ruffles. This combination of masculine and feminine elements created a unique and visually appealing aesthetic.

Irish designer Simone Rocha made a striking return to London Fashion Week, transforming the runway into a lush, floral spectacle. With a focus on blending masculine and feminine elements, Rocha continues to challenge traditional gender norms while infusing her work with a darker aesthetic. This season marks a new chapter that dives deep into the concept of perfection by revealing the intricacies of her creative process.

The collection featured a fascinating array of incomplete looks, with models showcasing embellished coats and half-finished garments. Rocha's playful experimentation included tulle-trimmed bodysuits and cutout zip-ups that revealed elegant bralettes beneath. The second part of the show introduced models adorned with three-dimensional floral elements, emphasising the interplay between beauty and fragility. Additionally, Rocha presented her latest collaboration with Crocs, offering platform sandals and embellished flats that seamlessly blend comfort with avant-garde style. This collection encapsulates Rocha’s unique vision, celebrating both the complexities of design and the beauty found within imperfection.

JW Anderson had one of the most memorable moments at London Fashion Week. The designer's minimalist exploration of modern prettiness was both innovative and elegant. By setting strict boundaries and focussing on a reduced library of materials, Anderson created a collection that was both visually appealing and intellectually stimulating. The interplay between macro and micro, the experimentation with form and function, and the use of surface treatment and embellishment all contributed to the collection's success. The silhouettes in the collection ranged from skintight to voluminous and sculptural to slender. All of the looks were paired with flat boots that fell askew on the ankles, and the Loafer bag completed the ensemble.

Steven Stokey-Daley is undoubtedly the designer of the moment, making waves as he opened London Fashion Week with his highly anticipated debut in womenswear. His collection, titled No Suffix, Prefix or Quote, was presented at the prestigious Royal Academy and drew an unexpected crowd, including Harry Styles and Emma Corrin. Known for his distinctive blend of mediaeval elegance and modern sophistication, Stokey-Daley's twenty-four sleek looks captured attention right from the start. The collection opened with crafted blazers featuring intricate floral embroidery and paired with exposed shirt collars and crochet socks, offering a fresh take on his signature style.

The collection’s craftsmanship was truly remarkable, with hand-beaded skirts showcasing a pixelated floral effect and old-school waistcoats flowing gracefully at the knees. Luxurious textures came through in contoured double-breasted coats with fur-trimmed necklines, while translucent maxi skirts paired with warped gingham and tank tops brought a playful nod to summer. Accessories like angel-embroidered crewnecks and fringed bags added a whimsical touch, rounding out the collection.

Ashley Williams' collection took centre stage with a provocative blend of innocence and rebellion, pushing herself in a way only she can. The runway was a mix of elements—like vintage bunny prints, Kawaii-inspired dresses, and baby rompers—paired with motifs of aggression, creating an intense juxtaposition that defined the show. Williams crafted a story where each look represented a different facet of identity, exploring the push and pull between anger, idealisation, and immaturity. As the collection unfolded, the tone shifted from light-hearted to daring, with leather pieces embossed with gun graphics and T-shirts printed with bloody bullet wounds, making it a complete collection.

Alexandre Arsenault and Charlotte Knowles took London Fashion Week on a unique journey, challenging the conventional notions of couture. While often associated with delicacy, the duo infused their designs with a gritty, grunge-inspired edge that redefined elegance. Set against the backdrop of the former Central Saint Martins building, the presentation felt like a masterclass in fashion history, as they drew inspiration from legendary couturiers like Madame Grès, Azzedine Alaïa, and John Galliano, all while filtering these influences through their distinctive lens.

Continuing their exploration of everyday staples, KNWLS transformed hoodies, denim, and trenches into stunning, sculptural silhouettes. The collection featured daringly low waists, cropped leather bombers, and bias-cut slip dresses that flowed gracefully over the body. Each piece balanced a sense of toughness with innate sensuality, enhanced by signature corsetry, lingerie straps, and lace. Peaked leather fascinators, crafted in collaboration with Stephen Jones, added a sci-fi twist, further pushing the boundaries of couture.

Erdem is no stranger to the London fashion scene, and with each collection, he consistently delivers a show that is both visually stunning and thought-provoking. For Spring/Summer 2025, Erdem explored the complexities of gender identity, drawing inspiration from Radclyffe Hall's groundbreaking novel The Well of Loneliness. The collection was a masterclass in gender-bending fashion, blurring the lines between menswear and womenswear in a playful and confident manner. Masculine suits appeared in unexpected hues, while tailoring merged with the drop-waisted silhouettes of the 1920s.

The juxtaposition of men's cardigans and blazers with tea dresses further challenges traditional gender norms. Adorned with cyanotype prints, loosely structured garments, and heavily embellished jewels, the collection is a feast for the eyes. The carnation, a queer emblem, appears in various guises throughout the show, adding a subtle yet powerful touch. Erdem's debut handbag, the Bloom Bag, completed the collection with its understated luxury and elegant design.

One of our favourite shows this season we cannot forget is Priya Ahluwalia collection titled Home Sweet Home. This collection was an exploration of identity, heritage, and the emotional ties that connect us to our roots. Drawing from her personal travels and her grandmother’s connection to India, Ahluwalia weaves a narrative of cultural journeys across borders. The collection featured a warm colour palette of soft ecru, brown, and red, enhanced by vibrant bursts of colour that symbolised the harmony between past and present. Intricate embellishments like freshwater pearls, loose beading, and geometric patterns, combined with sky-inspired designs, turned each piece into a rich, visual story. Sustainability remained at the heart of Ahluwalia’s vision, with deadstock Chloe fabrics reimagined as tailored suits and vintage doilies transformed into one-shoulder tops. The collection’s timeless silhouettes and textured fabrics evoked the lasting presence of home.

This London Fashion Week was particularly momentous for Harris Reed, marking his debut on the official schedule. Presenting in the Tanks of the Tate Modern, Reed showcased a collection filled with dramatic silhouettes and a strong emphasis on upcycling materials. With an eye toward sustainability, he aimed to elevate the concept of reusing found materials, turning them into high-fashion pieces. This commitment to sustainability not only reflects a modern sensibility but also honours the rich history behind each fabric.

Over the past six months, Reed scoured the UK and Europe for hidden treasures in secondhand shops and car boot sales. His collection featured a small but impactful lineup of fourteen looks, allowing him to let each fabric inspire its design. Each piece of material spoke to the silhouette it would inhabit. From structured upholstery that created sculptural shapes to flowing Venetian tablecloths draped with grace, every element was carefully curated. The standout pieces included an extravagant jacket made from meticulously crocheted tablecloths and a stunning Grecian-inspired finale look. With romanticism, Victoriana, and London theatre at the core of his vision, Reed's collection celebrated the beauty of repurposing while captivating the audience with its artistry.