Everyone was wondering what would happen to Loewe after Jonathan Anderson’s departure. But three collections in, McCollough and Hernandez are making a pretty convincing case that they know what they’re doing. The duo appears more confident in their own language this Spring/Summer 2027 season, moving beyond the immediate challenge of succession and starting to make the house feel like theirs. The result is a wardrobe that feels familiar without being predictable: a new take on everyday luxury in which sportswear, high fashion and artisanal savoir-faire coexist with ease.
The challenge isn’t an easy one. The expectations are sky-high, and if I were them, I’d probably be freaking out over one question: how do you become Loewe? It looks like McCollough and Hernandez are finding their way. They’re not trying to erase what came before them, but they’re not simply trying to continue it either. They’re figuring out what Loewe means to them, bringing their own roots and experiences into a Spanish house with a hundred and eighty years of history. And maybe that’s exactly what makes this season so interesting. When two worlds collide, a new one is born.
The collection is fresh, sporty and playful, but never casual in the conventional sense. Recognisable elements of American dressing like polos, blazers, shorts, baseball caps, boat shoes and striped shirts are twisted in proportion, material and context. Preppy codes are slightly off: polos appear backwards, tailoring gets abbreviated, and familiar sportswear staples are elevated through suede, leather, silk, knitwear and chiffon. The tension between the everyday and the extraordinary is where the collection really comes alive. Nothing feels too precious, even when the clothes are anything but simple. You can actually imagine yourself wearing it.
In the collection, every detail counts, from textures to labels and, of course, colour. Yellow returns as one of the house’s signature shades, energetic and optimistic, almost like a little warning for us to pay attention. It is joined by turquoise, orange, pink, brown and saturated greens, creating interesting new colour stories and combinations that feel instinctive yet slightly unfamiliar. Then comes the Spanish side of the equation. Spanish baroque enters through painterly sashes, draping, folds and taleguilla-inspired shapes, while faded suede meets flashes of vivid colour. But Spanishness never feels like a costume or a checklist of references. The ease and functionality of American sportswear meet the drama, sensuality and craft that have always been part of Loewe’s DNA.
Craft is where the identity of Loewe really comes through. Intricate beadwork appears across the collection, from raised floral motifs built with caviar-style beads to crystal embroidery developed with Cécile Feilchenfeldt, a finalist in the LOEWE FOUNDATION Craft Prize 2025. Elsewhere, three-dimensional flowers, fringed surfaces and decorative details add a sense of movement and tactility. Everyday garments become vehicles for craftsmanship, while craftsmanship itself becomes more playful.
The accessories follow the same instinct. The Puzzle returns in an exceptionally light and flexible form, while the new Pasito places a supple nappa dustbag over a more structured construction. The same goes for the archive. The Oro suede blazer from 1960 is revisited, while motifs from Spanish painting reappear on silk ties and signatures such as the Flamenco knot and ruching are taken somewhere unexpected. The archive becomes a starting point, not a rulebook. Something to pick up, play with and make new again.
