Jonathan Anderson transported attendees to a world of artistic singularity and precision in his latest Loewe Spring/Summer 2025 menswear runway show. His meticulous exploration of artistry and detail unfolded against a backdrop of curated masterpieces by iconic 20th-century creatives, showcased at La Garde Républicaine—an interplay of art and fashion. The show channeled the essence of Susan Sontag's “erotics of art”—prioritising sensual pleasure over interpretation. This eclectic mix of references, including Peter Hujar’s evocative photography, Charles Rennie Mackintosh’s intricate furniture, Carlo Scarpa’s meticulously crafted designs, and Paul Thek’s transformative sculptures, served as a rich tapestry for Anderson’s creative vision. Each garment, akin to a work of art, bore the imprint of his avant-garde vision, blending tradition with modernity.
As expected of Anderson, the new Loewe menswear collection exuded razor-sharp tailoring, characterised by slim silhouettes and meticulous attention to detail throughout all the looks. French C-suite tailoring met almond-toe leather oxfords in a monochromatic palette, adding a touch of sophistication and refinement. Fabrics crafted from woven silk mohair offered a spongey finish that lent a subtle bounce to the movement, showcasing the seamless fusion of complexity and effortlessness seen through Anderson’s work.
Precision was the watchword as Anderson deftly manipulated scale and setting. House labels transformed into smocked shirts, while vests were adorned with sections resembling watch strap links or mother of pearl, adding layers of texture and intrigue. Shorts and t-shirts painted with cable knit shapes, edged in golden piping, gleamed like ceramics. Anderson’s exploration of forced perspective was evident in the use of gold and monochrome feathers, which partially obscured the models’ faces, challenging the audience to constantly reassess their perceptions.
The collection’s standout pieces included cropped shirts and pants connected by double-circled belts that stretched from the stomach to the hip, creating a dynamic interplay of unity and division. A short-sleeve shirt, fabricated in tonal fringe resembling hairy houndstooth, and a long brown coat that transitioned from nappa leather to ostrich, brought to life Anderson’s mastery of material transformation.
Throughout the show, the influence of the featured artists was palpable. Hujar’s single high-heeled shoe, Mackintosh’s complex Half Moon Chair, and Scarpa’s easel were not mere backdrops but integral elements that enhanced the narrative. Each piece in the collection resonated with the show’s underlying theme of elevating the everyday to the extraordinary. By drawing on the singular artistic voices of the past, Anderson crafts a narrative that is both deeply personal and universally resonant to all.
