Sometimes fashion can be like a wave. It comes. And it goes. It spreads and trenches until it creates deep valleys. It shapes our surroundings, but at the same time follows paths defined by others. Once it hits a rock – like a climax, a goal finally achieved, a game played too long – it bursts into white foam, rising softly in the air, into thousands of little sparks that seem ripped apart, but surely come together again to form a new movement. Inspired by this process, this organic and natural imagery, there was one show at Seoul Fashion Week that managed to transfer the timeless power of water into clothing: Kwakhyunjoo’s Spring/Summer 2026 collection, The Future World with Waves.
Founded in 2011 by designer Kwak Hyun Joo, the brand is especially known for its colourful prints and for designs that are fancy, sexy, feminine, and for people with “good sense” (as they describe themselves) — all at the same time. It connects different generations, mirrors popular Korean trends, yet stands out through its own playful design language. Looking at the runway pictures from Friday, The Future World with Waves is definitely no exception. More than that, it seems like an arrow hitting the bullseye of a dartboard, connecting various fashion phenomena in a way that’s neither loud nor obvious, yet unmistakably present.
What I mean is subtle office core. Transforming into summery cottage looks. Y2K, wide shoulders, and pearl necklaces. But somehow, Kwak Hyun Joo managed to not make these trends look boring: it’s a game of oversized and fitting. Big pants combined with tops that are not tight, caressing the body in a soft, comfortable way. Blazers that are sometimes cropped with sharp silhouettes, sometimes abstract. Sometimes they are double-breasted with long, thin arms; other times, they’re just a classic vest. There are stripes, hidden in a long skirt, or checkered fabrics hugging the models from head to toe.
And in the centre of it all: a bright purple print appearing on shirts and jerseys that is so charmingly cheesy, it reminds you of the dolphin posters from the 2000s. It’s a highlight that directly builds an exciting contrast to the romantic lace elements and retro berets. To the knitted bonnets and delicate mesh sleeves.
Of course, as the title of the collection promised, there is one theme that connects all seventy-one looks. While the models are styled with an elegant wet-hair look and a shimmery rose-coloured blush, they are wearing T-shirts featuring a cobalt-blue print of a wave and soft, flowy fabrics that follow their movements like water. One highlight: the chunky, transparent swim shoes that could make you think of a modern, fashionable (and sea-urchin-proof) mermaid rising from the sea.
But especially by distancing yourself from the details, the bigger picture of the show becomes clearer. A picture that reveals the collection is built and aligned like a wave itself, starting with rose colours that evolve into purple and blue. From blue back to rose. Forth and back. Purple again. Playing with the innocent white of the sea spray and the sand and rocks waiting on the coast. The colours travel from deep water to dusty beige dunes, dry grass, until it reaches rich meadows. Yellow and red blooms. Moss. Maybe even trees. All brought to life by the wave.
Therefore, Kwak Hyun Joo created a collection that is incredibly cohesive in its storytelling without being overwhelming. It’s easy to imagine being worn in daily life, and still brings a certain magic to the runway. And what location would have worked for that presentation better than Zaha Hadid’s Dongdaemun Design Plaza with its neo-futuristic, organic, and flowing shape? All in all, a refreshing splash during Seoul Fashion Week.
