For his fifteenth anniversary collection, Simon Porte Jacquemus took a daring leap, both figuratively and literally. The breathtaking Casa Malaparte in Capri, a modernist masterpiece perched on the dramatic cliffs of Punta Massullo, became the stage for a collection that promises to be on our fashion moodboards.
Imagine a house. Not just any house, mind you. This one, perched curiously on the cliffs of Capri, is a stark white cube, defying gravity itself. Casa Malaparte, a legend whispered in architectural circles, has become the stage for a fashion spectacle unlike any other. Built in the late 1930s and designed by the Italian architect Adalberto Libera, Casa Malaparte has a past as dramatic as its silhouette. It even graced the silver screen, with Brigitte Bardot basking in its sun-drenched glory. Now, after years of meticulous restoration, the house welcomes a new kind of muse: the visionary mind of Simon Jacquemus and his ever-clever marketing team.
La Casa show is the perfect scenario for Simon’s vision, where decorations, styling, and concepts can elevate ordinary garments to extraordinary status. Jacquemus' latest collection is a panoramic exploration of essential forms, blending minimalist geometries with classical Greek draping, transcribed in the purest manner. Fresh silhouettes reveal a duality, with architectural shapes emerging with lightness and sensuality.
Sublime with a touch of surrealism, the designs feature cascading jerseys, sheer mousseline layers, and constructed jackets with angled collars and precise panelling. Bonded suede pieces are hand-finished, while exaggerated A-line skirts and flowing bustier dresses redefine the figure's frame. Suits with graphic zebra stripes and ensembles with curving outlines and defined waists exude chic playfulness. Familiar pieces are reinvented: scooping tanks, loose pants, front-pleat shorts, airy boatnecks, and trousers in crisp denim and marinière polos.
Subtle references to Curzio Malaparte’s home and Godard’s Le Mépris connect the collection to its setting. Artistic motifs from the floor tiles—intense Capri blue, expressive red, shades of yellow, and bright sage—animate the monochromatic scheme. Debuting are La Spiaggia, a hand-crafted rond-carré bag inspired by the beach, and Le Bombola, a bucket bag with angular architecture, available in leopard jacquard or smooth leather with a sculpted magnetic ring. Footwear includes stacked ballerines, square-toed espadrilles, and moccasins, extending the silhouettes through revisited bourgeois archetypes, complemented by summer caps and hats with Capri branding.
This show marks a full-circle moment for Simon Jacquemus, who was captivated by Casa Malaparte's elegance fifteen years ago. The craftsmanship, design precision, attention to materials, and silhouette development in this collection mirror the inspiration of this iconic setting.