Hermès’ latest Spring/Summer 2026 menswear collection, presented at Paris Fashion Week under the direction of Véronique Nichanian, redefines sophisticated summer dressing for the urban man. Staged within the Conseil de Surveillance, a remarkable example of 1930s French Rationalist architecture, the setting ironically underscored the collection’s core theme: effortless cool in the heat.
For a long time, Hermès menswear has been defined by quiet innovation and refined craftsmanship, subtle shifts in proportion, luxurious yet restrained materials, and an unwavering commitment to comfort and elegance. Previous collections have explored themes of discreet sensuality, functional minimalism, and polished nonchalance, often prioritising movement and tactile pleasure over overt fashion statements. Nichanian’s latest vision, centred around the theme ‘Summer in the City,’ builds on this legacy while gently going further.
Blending luxury with an understated, almost breezy elegance, the collection embraces warm-weather dressing through innovative, breathable fabrics and flowing silhouettes. A palette of soft, monochromatic hues – putty, vanilla, and coffee – speaks volumes about the Maison’s continued commitment to sophistication through simplicity.
Nichanian’s approach to materials and proportions was notable. Leather, often considered a winter staple, was transformed into airy trousers and knitted cardigans, with light shirts and garments in general. The collection also introduced new proportions, with wide pants complementing shorter jackets, and versatile pieces like chemise jackets and safari/parkas, designed for multifunctional wear. Even exotic skins found their place in lightweight hunter gilets, further highlighting the collection’s focus on lightness and ease. A standout was an off-white leather shirt featuring openwork stitching from the shoulders down the sleeves, maintaining sophistication while enhancing breathability, completed with a tonal fringe-detailed scarf and brown tailored trousers.
Beyond the garments, accessories played a pivotal role in creating the collection’s relaxed urban vibe. Slitted leather sandals, rope-trimmed flip-flops, and an array of generously sized bags from totes to sailor keep-alls, added a practical yet playful dimension. Scarves were worn knotted very wide over the chest, or casually around the neck. Huge bags, ready for travel. These capacious bags, some adorned with prints of show jumpers or a dancing monkey, injected a touch of joy into the collection.
Overall, the Spring/Summer 2026 show balanced ease and elegance, offering an urban wardrobe that redefines seasonal dressing with subtle innovation and timeless sophistication, very much needed.
