An average Monday sees Ell de Vill perched before the mirror in leopard print – with her cat – plus the tail. Or the spotted extraterrestrial being in a trench enjoying their smoke break. It’s quite evident that the makeup artist’s visual world straight out of something extraordinarily fantastical comes from Matières Fecales and Rick Owens with a touch of the irreverence of Alexander McQueen. In the de Vill mansion, every day is Halloween.
Now, she’s gone and written her book, Shapeshifter, admittedly her favourite. “After nine years of experimentation in fashion, makeup and the digital world, it’s a confessional book,” she admits. “A dissection of my most memorable creatures, artist sketches, feelings and much more. I used this opportunity to expose myself and be vulnerable in regard to how my art expresses my emotions and thoughts – pains, and my body or gender dysmorphia journey,” she continues. METAL logs in for a quick chat in the mansion with the queen herself.
First things first, A/S/L (if you're comfortable sharing, for the ‘90s vibe).
I was born in June of 1998 – so twenty-seven –, I identify as a trans individual, originally from Portugal but currently call the UK my home.
How does horror make you feel, in one or two words?
On the edge of my seat — and I revel in it!
When did you first pick up a makeup brush?
I believe the first time I picked a makeup brush was probably around the age of fourteen, so over ten years ago already.
Makeup school or independent rodeo?
I learned my makeup and special effects skills by hyper-focusing for many hours on makeup videos on YouTube — back in the day it was becoming such a huge thing. Me practicing everyday with cheap makeup, or even watercolours and acrylics from school, has made me who I am today.
What’s the cheapest makeup you ever bought that actually slapped.
Probably my acrylic paints and watercolour pencils when I first started, and honestly, I loved using the pencil to do different colour eyeliners. I also have used Sheglam and wasn't opposed to it!
Who did you look up to back in the day?
I remember my earliest makeup inspirations being Ms. Fame and Violet Chachki – they looked flawless on TV. Now I go for a dead Victorian era ghostly vibe, which comes from my love of Victorian and Edwardian garments, and Tim Burton.
What was your favourite fantasy novel when you were growing up — or even now?
As a child, anything Studio Ghibli, but especially Howl’s Moving Castle and Spirited Away by Hayao Miyazaki. Growing up, definitely Guillermo del Toro and Tim Burton — everything from these visionaries have propelled me into a world of pure magic and fairytale.
What’s the process, where does inspiration strike from in both fashion and makeup?
Fashion inspiration for me strikes from unique artists like Matières Fecales, Rick Owens, Demna’s Balenciaga, Harris Reed’ Nina Ricci, Alexander McQueen, Thierry Mugler, Schiaparelli, Dilara Findikoglu, WindowSen, Kevin Germanier, Iris Van Herpen, and many, many others. In terms of makeup, I will most definitely go with the queen herself, Pat McGrath.
My creative process usually starts at night, when the thoughts start brewing in bed. Then I do digital or live drawings for reference. I shoot the visuals and after that, I breathe life into my creatures or photoshoots with digital tools.
My creative process usually starts at night, when the thoughts start brewing in bed. Then I do digital or live drawings for reference. I shoot the visuals and after that, I breathe life into my creatures or photoshoots with digital tools.
Since you work on your makeup at night, what does 4am see you doing?
I also enjoy doing it during the day. But 4am will probably see me with a good playlist, candles on, my cats around me, and projecting some sort of look. Love that feeling of being awake when the world is asleep. Probably one of my neuro traits, but we live on.
What made you want to write a book, and could you tell us a little about what it is about?
Shapeshifter is a beautiful recollection of almost nine years of work and experimentation, both in makeup, fashion, and the digital world. It is a confessional book, a dissection of my most memorable creatures, artist sketches, and feelings. I used this opportunity to expose myself and be vulnerable in regards to how my art expresses my pains, emotions, thoughts, and my body/gender dysmorphia journey.
Describe your book in three words.
Meaningful, expressive, confessional.
How is London as a scene for accepting more gothic looks out and about on the road? I know some people have faced judgement from Paris when they’re out in full goth, extraterrestrial glam in the streets. Has the London scene been conducive to you? Who would you say is your community?
To be honest, I have never dealt with any major attach in London. Even though I am very much a lonely and isolated creature, I would like to think my community is everyone that feels misplaced, all the insecure artists, the baddies, obviously the trans/LGBT+ community, and those that can find relatability in my lonesome and mental health journey.
Is your house goth?
I love an eclectic mood: candle-lit spaces, vintage decorations, gold mirrors, flowers draping, taxidermy animals and my oddities and curiosities. Not all-black goth but more eclectic fairyland. I have the biggest room as a studio/makeup room/closet, which I am very thankful to my partner-in-crime for.
What’s the longest you’ve taken to get into makeup?
Probably six to seven hours, which is absolutely crazy. When doing full body paintings alone, it gets harder and takes way more time than with help of other skilled people. I can recall all the long ones because it was so tiring.
Free time – if it exists – finds you doing what?
Sketching, hot gluing something, doing my makeup just for the sake of it, styling a wig , gaming, riding horses in the country, sleeping or simply just serving face, because why not?
Do you journal?
Truthfully, no. I have tried but can’t keep the consistency.
What’s the last used emoji on your phone?
It is usually the pink bow or the black cat. I’m a sucker for the cute princess pink bow.
What are your last three google searches?
My last three google searches are: Why my cats keep waking me up every day at 3am, Guillermo del Toro Frankenstein, and how to do homemade pierogi.
Do you have something to confess?
Print will never die in my eyes.
