The Fall/Winter 2025 edition of Dubai Fashion Week has left us with an array of proposals that redefine contemporary luxury with risk-taking approaches, cultural narratives and a fusion of the artisanal and the avant-garde. From the Parisian opulence of Weinsanto to the mythology of Les Benjamins, the experimentation of Viva Vox and the urban sophistication of Lama Jouni, this season has shown that fashion in Dubai is not only a showcase of creativity, but also a meeting point between tradition and innovation. So here are our six favourite collections.
Weinsanto
Victor Weinsanto presents Cauchemar in the Kitchen, where the eccentricity of the iconic Maxim's restaurant in Paris is deconstructed in a collection that mixes classicism and rebellion. The opulence of Art Nouveau-inspired embroidery meets the irreverence of cropped blazers, corsetry that insinuates itself through transparent tulle and bags that play with excess, like the oversized champagne glass.
The colour palette oscillates between black, grey, and white, with vibrant irruptions of prints that evoke psychedelia. Men’s tailoring, with ties and pinstripe suits, dialogue with miniskirts, sweatshirts and oversized trousers. Between the grotesque and the sophisticated, Weinsanto has created a collection where irony and joy meet luxury.
Les Benjamins
Les Benjamins looks to the past in order to project the future. Inspired by the mythology and traditions of the Altai people, Altai Turks/Altaicana is an exploration of the relationship between cultural identity and urban fashion. The collection fuses bold textures, embroidery and tribal references in a proposal where streetwear and tailoring dialogue. Earthy tones and prints inspired by natural landscapes are deployed in suits, bomber jackets and fur garments. Denim total looks, pinstripe pieces and bolo tie necklaces complete a collection that synthesises the intersection between Orient and Occident.
Tara Babylon
Princess of Thieves turns the desert landscape into a textile tapestry where craftsmanship and sustainability take centre stage. Tara fuses tradition with modernity through crochet, hardware and recycled upholstery that transform desert-inspired motifs into contemporary pieces. Earthy tones, greens, and blacks permeate asymmetrical skirts, fitted dresses, and outerwear that blur the line between utilitarian and ornamental. Hats and masks add an enigmatic air, while ruffled trims and tulle gloves emphasise an aesthetic that combines the ethereal with the structured.
BLSSD
The Dubai-Beirutin brand proposes a reinvention of tailoring through an exploration of volumes, asymmetrical cuts, and contrasting materials. The collection moves between structured and fluid: oversized suits, slit skirts and cropped shirts coexist with black sequined dresses and silver pieces that challenge the brand's aesthetic. Jackets and coats with structured shoulder pads reinforce the narrative of power and daring. The use of strategically positioned leather belts and the inclusion of Dyson headphones as accessories enhance the avant-garde identity of the collection.
Lama Jouni
The designer presents a collection that moves between discreet luxury and urban functionality. Refined silhouettes, monochromatic ensembles and attention to the construction of the pieces make her proposal an ode to modern femininity. Openings and asymmetrical cuts bring dynamism to long fitted dresses and pencil skirts, while black trench coats and oversized suits in check print reinforce the idea of sophistication. Black, grey and sky blue dominate a collection where fashion is translated into a precise language that does not renounce sensuality.
Viva Vox
And if there is a brand that is not afraid of exaggeration, it is Viva Vox, which presents a collection that reconfigures tailoring. Excessive proportions, surprising combinations of fabrics, and a colour palette dominated by blacks, greys, and whites define a proposal that defies conventional codes. Coats with structured shoulders, oversized blazers (some worn in reverse) and voluminous dresses in velvet and sequins compose an aesthetic that plays with the tension between structure and fluidity. Asymmetries, metallic finishes and draping create a visual play where tailoring goes one step further.
