If you thought you were done with the Olympics, think again. For the second time, Maria Grazia Chiuri finds inspiration in Ancient Greece and the majesty of high-performing sports for the new Dior Spring/Summer 2025 collection, recently presented in Paris. Opening the show with FKA Twigs’ latest single, Eusexua, and artist SAGG Napoli shooting an arrow, the Maison kicked things off with drama, performance, and a strong audio-visual identity.
Back in June, Maria Grazia Chiuri presented the Fall/Winter 2024 Haute Couture collection ahead of the Olympic and Paralympic games. In it, she stripped clothes to their essence and started an intensive research labour around the human body. Well, she wasn’t done with that, so she’s kept exploring the topic further in her most recent collection as well. The first three looks (consisting of asymmetrical black bodysuits) are testament to that: Chiuri is looking for comfort, body-hugging silhouettes, practicality, but also attention to detail.
The next looks continue emphasising the importance of freeing the body from artifice: dresses, two-piece suits, skirts, and tailored pants in soft, light materials elevate the wearer’s look elegantly while remaining subtle and subdued. As the Maison says in the press release, Chiuri “aims to bring fashion back to its origins and emphasise the relationship connecting the body and what dresses it, between intention and function.” What is surprising though is the amount of black used for a Spring/Summer collection: the first fifteen looks that went down the runway were black. However, Chiuri balances it with a lot white and nude too.
While digging into the rich archives of the Maison, the Artistic Director of womenswear came across a 1970s design by Marc Bohan for Miss Dior printed on a scarf: super graphic in stark black-and-white contrast, with elongated letters that almost look like stripes. With that as another starting point (to connect past and present, the Maison’s historical heritage from a contemporary point of view), Chiuri has used in several outerwear pieces like jackets and trench coats, but also trousers or leather leg warmers.
The final looks, in nude, pink hues, and made from delicate materials like tulle and handcrafted embroideries that prove the savoir faire of Dior’s workshops, give the collection a final, even more refined touch. The cherry on top.
