Maria Grazia Chiuri has unveiled the Dior Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2025 Collection. This season, the Italian couturier stepped into a world of contrasts—drawing inspiration from Lewis Carroll’s Alice in Wonderland and Yves Saint Laurent’s seminal 1958 Trapèze collection for Dior, Chiuri’s vision was one of escapism, delicacy, and edge.
Set within a tent in the lush gardens of the Rodin Museum, the runway was transformed into a surreal fairytale through the intricate artwork of Rithika Merchant, whose tapestries of mythical creatures and lush botanicals wrapped the space in an air of French couture. Celebrities like Anya Taylor-Joy, Alexandra Daddario, Jenna Ortega, Jisoo, Venus Williams, and Karlie Kloss watched from the front row as the show unfolded, but beyond the stunning setting, it was the clothes that stood out—delicate, airy, and crafted with a bold sense of experimentation.
Sheer tulle dresses encrusted with delicate embroidery floated down the runway, while opulent skirts and fitted tailcoats played with proportion. Chiuri reimagined the crinoline, paring it down to open, sculptural hoops worn over ruffled skirts. Bloomers peeked out beneath ethereal layers, and feather-embroidered redingotes added a touch of poetic punk. Despite the collection’s softness, structure remained—evident in impeccably tailored coats inspired by Dior’s archival silhouettes, from the Trapèze line to the sculptural Cigale of 1952.
Chiuri’s signature romanticism was ever-present, but this season, it was filtered through a muted, almost ghostly palette of ecru, beige, and pale butter. And yet, the collection had an undeniable presence, reinforced by the models’ mohawk-inspired hairstyles adorned with delicate petals—a nod to Chiuri’s own youth in Rome, where punk rock and fashion first collided in her imagination.
