Paris is buzzing (and somewhat collapsing) due to the 2024 Games—the Olympic and Paralympic Games, that is. And while the city is almost entirely under construction or renovation trying to get dolled up for the rest of the world to see, Maria Grazia Chiuri has decided to go to the roots of it all: Ancient Greece. For Fall/Winter 2024 Haute Couture Collection for Dior, the Creative Director delves into the world of marble statues, field sports, and an exploration of the body.
The first look set the tone for the rest of the show: a symmetrical long, white dress with beautiful draping on both the shoulders and the hips is reminiscent of the Caryatides—or any other Greek sculpture depicting the female form, for that matter. Those images, so imbued in the imaginary collective, especially in the Western world, take us back to a time where things were more spiritual, more sacred, but at the same time, rawer, sort of laid back, less complex. And that’s what the F/W collection conveys: a sense of easiness, of comfort. Of going back to the primary, simple idea. But, of course, that idea is heightened to the highest level thanks to the savoir faire of the Dior ateliers.
In the words of the Maison, for Maria Grazia Chiuri the show “represents an extraordinary opportunity to combine couture and sportswear with classicism, rebellion, collective energy and, above all, the political value of the female body.” We can see that in the exquisite draping of the pieces including dresses, skirts, and tops. As you may know, draping is a technique that is directly worked on the body (or a mannequin), which means reconnecting with the essence of the wearer. Even though there are sheer fabrics that reveal the body, the rest of the collection envelops it like a cocoon but without being restrictive.
The fabrics are airy, floaty, and light, allowing for maximum comfort. For example, Maria Grazia Chiuri has decided to use a material like jersey, which is unusual to see in Haute Couture, and has elevated it by turning it into metal mesh in gold, silver, and white. There are also other techniques that contribute to this sense of bodily freedom, like pleats that are sewn down or open to accompany movement. And, of course, silk and moiré jacquard, some of the richest materials out there, are used throughout the collection.
Staying true to that Ancient world, the colour palette is focused on neutral tones: different shades of white, silver, gold, and black. But there is also a witty use of red, considered the ‘colour of life’ by Monsieur Dior, both in little details or in one of the highlight looks of the collection: a bathrobe-like dress embellished with hundreds of shimmering crystals.
