One thing about Desigual is that they will drop the coolest collaborations when we least expect it but when we need them the most. This time the story is written not from scratch but as a second chapter of an already very fruitful connection between two creative universes that share quite a lot, from their philosophy and morals to their aesthetics and taste. We’re talking about none other than Alphonse Maitrepierre's brand-new venture with the Spanish brand, a very exciting reencounter between two minds whose joint chemistry has been proven to be loved by the audience, the clients, and the fashion enthusiasts, who don't miss a chance to snap some OOTD pics or record some TikToks wearing their pieces. We speak with Maitrepierre himself to learn firsthand what's behind this successful collection.
The work of the young but already highly regarded French designer Alphonse Maitrepierre has been highlighted not only for the uniqueness of his concepts, his distinctive approach, and an aesthetic that is becoming more and more identifiable with each passing day, but also by his consciousness regarding topics strongly attached to the fashion industry but often overlooked by it, like sustainability and the attention to practices that care for the environment. This state of mind resonates with Desigual’s philosophy that has made them stand out ever since its creation, and a connection between these two universes made sense the first time they worked together back in 2023 and makes sense now as the second part of a creative synergy that, from the looks of it, can last for a long time.
Revolving around a non-excluding duality between femininity and a grunge spirit, the collection is filled with bold elements such as black chunky boots, spray prints on jumpers and dresses, contrasting with subtle pieces such as bolero shirts and a delicate color palette in pastel pink tones. The craftsmanship and savoir-faire of Maitrepierre are made evident in tailored pieces and his ability to handle Desigual’s archival ideas and translate them into modern times. In this interview we dive deeper with Alphonse into what lies behind the pieces we see every day on billboards and showcases, as we also learn what the perfect song that embodies the collection is.
Hi Alphonse, It's a pleasure talking to you. Congratulations on another very successful collaboration with Desigual! How do you feel after unveiling the result of all your hard work?
Hello METAL! I’m very happy about this collection with Desigual. It’s been quite a journey since our first capsule, and I feel very grateful for the relationship we have together and all we have built so far.
I don't know if you're very active on social media, but I've been encountering many TikToks about the collection, and it also always catches my eye when I pass by the billboards of it in the street. Whenever you encounter media about the collection in an unexpected way, what do you think of it? From an almost consumer point of view, I mean.
I have been following indeed, but I’m quite detached, I have to say. My focus was mostly on creating the campaign shoot, but then I discovered so many additional social contents from Desigual that were actually super cool and very dynamic. It’s also very fun to see people wearing the designs and posting their looks. People from our studio, as well as friends & family, sometimes send me random pictures from the streets of people wearing the collection. It’s such a warm feeling to see customers enjoy the collection.
The duality is very present throughout the pieces; they're delicate, but they also have this grungy, kind of unapologetic vibe to them. What were you meaning to communicate with such contrast?
There is always a lot of duality in my creative approach because I like to confront ideas. For this capsule collection, even more so since its dialogue between both brands, Desigual and Maitrepierre. This season the duality is about combining femininity and grunge. On one hand, many punk archives from Desigual, and on the other hand, the Parisian DNA of Maitrepierre. We can find this duality within almost every item of the capsule: bolero-bomber jacket, chaps illusion denim, sneaker-ballerina, or hybrid pointy boots on a sneaker sole. I love the idea of two different things that aren’t supposed to be mixed, blending in a harmonious hybrid combo. Why couldn’t we be grunge & feminine at the same time?
You're well known for your savoir-faire and attention to detail. How do you work and translate this meticulousness into such a big project where, I guess, the scale is very different from what you're used to, and therefore the processes are different?
Designing requires seeing and feeling the pieces. There are some items that we develop from our side in our studio, mostly tailored pieces, like the trench coat. But we actually visit Desigual’s office in Barcelona quite a lot for several fittings and taking decisions regarding materials, for example. The human experience is also part of the process and makes it even richer, because we can also really discuss the collection together. This time, it went quite fast, as we know each other better season after season.
In a previous interview we had with you, you described two words that characterize Maitrepierre: old-fashioned and geek. How do the Desigual codes and your approach to them navigate and interact with these two very different but key concepts for you?
We have more in common than I thought from the beginning. They started with upcycling, like Maitrepierre. Desigual is also embracing sustainability, which is key for me. Their collections have always been very colorful, joyful, and super playful—which is something that can be found at Maitrepierre too. I like to focus on some of their archive elements to create some new contemporary versions of it.
This is a collection you've been working on for the past year, simultaneously with your very own collections. How do your mind and creativity jump from one project to the other? Are they completely separate entities? Do they feed each other somehow?
Of course, a lot of things I design are connected to each other, but whenever we find the right direction, the capsule follows its own path, so it’s pretty easy to jump from one to the other as soon as the identity and the concept are clear. We also sometimes have to redirect during the process because we can easily get influenced by everything we see around us. It’s important to be aware of trends, but the challenge is to keep it unique and authentic.
I remember I wrote the article about your first collaboration with Desigual, where dark holes, solar punk, and jugaad were the topics; in this one, retrofuturism is the main thing. I wonder if these very specific concepts are born after learning you will be working in these collaborations, or if these ideas are living constantly in your moodboards and you find in Desigual the right partner to explore them.
Some of my ideas and concepts are maybe sort of responses to what I feel or sense in the moment. I would say that all of the themes I like to explore are always questioning the different links between nature, humans, and technology. This time, I feel like the capsule echoes the previous one, which was so bright, fresh, and colorful. Now, I wanted to explore something a bit darker… but also it wouldn’t be so fun to do something similar again.
Can you explain how the very interesting prints and the color scheme of the collection were born?
The combination of colors happened in a very instinctive way. I love the beige-blue combo that I haven’t seen so much. For the prints, I thought of snatched wallpapers. I always love florals, but then I didn’t want something too classic. I liked the rough feeling of a ripped floral wallpaper. One of the main inspirations was also the spray effect, which usually appears like a very street element. So the challenge was really to turn it into something smooth and feminine.
This is like choosing one among your children, but which of the pieces do you think embodies the best what you had in mind when starting working on the project?
I believe the checks-jumper with the blue spray illusion. Because it’s like a classic retro jumper, with a generous relaxed fit, but this simple touch of color makes it just so contemporary and fun. But I was also very excited to develop a rubber bag; it’s something I wanted to do for a while!
You're very young, but you're doing and working on great things already. How does the idea of collaboration help young creators, and what do you find is the greatest lesson from working on these joint collections?
What I love about collaborations is the dialogue between brands. Creating something that both will benefit is very stimulating. As a designer, it’s really fun to create designs that are more accessible, because Maitrepierre is still very niche. Working with Desigual also allows me to develop some things that are quite complicated to do at Maitrepierre’s scale for the moment. So, it’s definitely very playful to me.
And on the other hand, what do you think young minds have to offer to the industry?
I think that young minds can definitely bring new ethics into the market. We have to find new and better approaches for the future, and it’s our duty as young designers to carry this. Sustainability is really the key challenge for the industry, and big players have the power to change it and to introduce new norms. From the first collection we did with Desigual, it was mandatory for us that the capsule fulfills sustainability standards. I’m very happy and proud to be able to create a capsule collection in an ethical way without compromising aesthetics.
Which one do you think could be the perfect soundtrack for this collection?
Hmm, good question. Maybe Hand To Phone by Adult... Somehow this song is more than ten years old, but it still feels so actual to me!
