The element of surprise of what Matthieu Blazy’s Chanel looks like may have faded, but one can never get accustomed to the beauty he is capable of creating. Keeping Gabrielle Chanel, the woman behind the name, as one of his most important sources of inspiration, this season arrives as a study and as an appreciation of the multitudes contained within her. Described as different faces of the same coin, the multifaceted essence of a woman is taken as a pillar from which to start shaping the portrayal of different archetypes and as the key concept that ended up taking form as an almost chronological study of garments and fashion. Storytelling, one of fashion’s most powerful qualities, takes the whimsical, light and beautiful aesthetic of the current Chanel to help us better understand the woman with whom it all started.
How aware a designer is of the many layers that make up the person they are creating for is essential. From how broad the opportunities can be on a creative level to how wide their target can be from a business perspective, it is in everyone’s best interest to have someone at the head of the house who understands well that inside every client they dress, there are multiple identities, tastes, necessities and desires. The polished businesswoman of today may have once been a rebellious adolescent; the free-spirited artist perhaps comes from a strict and traditional family. Or, without even going so far, the corporate worker during the day probably loves to indulge in the glamour and sophistication of the night.
Like any other woman, Gabrielle Chanel lived through many versions of herself, and with such an eventful life, the differences in styles and aesthetics are greater, and so is the variety of garments required for each phase of her life. “From the strictures of Edwardian corsetry and tailoring she once assumed and rebelled against, to her reconfigured, revolutionary ideas of suiting, slipped on and lightly sported. Identities are tried on, enhanced, added to, played with, or at times discarded and fought against,” recounts Blazy. This reunion of different eras of style and their subsequent changes in silhouettes, materials and garment constructions is evident in the opposite but complementary looks presented on the runway, from the lightest, most delicate underwear to more sturdy and structured suits.
As they all draw from the same source of inspiration, it is not hard to tell that they share the same essence and spirit, the same one that has been present throughout the history of the house. All the recognisable elements are there: the tweed, the chains, the florals and the savoir-faire, added to what Matthieu has brought ever since the first moment of his tenure: the impressive innovation in fabric manipulation, the reconstruction of classical silhouettes, the creation of accessories that quickly become objects of desire, and, overall, the perfect understanding of what modern women want and need.
With more subtle symbols like the birds, as big and imposing as the decorations hanging from the Grand Palais’s ceiling and as small and delicate as the ear cuff worn by some models, or the transformative cloud formations quietly present in some of the looks as transparent prints, change and evolution were key. Key for Chanel, key for Matthieu and key for every woman. Time passes and no one stays the same, but evolving doesn’t mean forgetting. What we once were stays with us inside as another version of ourselves, able to reappear whenever it feels like it. This show was a beautiful reminder to embrace and honour all our different selves.
If there’s anything Matthieu loves and knows how to do well aside from coming up with memorable concepts and clothes, it is picking the perfect needle drop for the show’s finale. This time, Gimme More by pop princess Britney Spears accompanied the models on their final walk, and they couldn’t contain a genuine smile or a cheeky wink to the cameras. Of course, it is hard to keep a straight face when listening to this anthem, but the vibe that Chanel models tend to exude in these final moments always perfectly defines the effect Blazy’s Chanel has on women. They all look relaxed, confident, comfortable. They look like they feel beautiful. Fashion houses like this have a purpose beyond the functional. Dressing the body is important, but the effect that what we wear has on our inner self becomes just as vital. We can tell Chanel women always look and feel their best.
