Get out of the way! Celine woman coming through. Dans Paris the collection for womenswear Winter 2022 opens with soft nudity, French architecture and a 007 type woman rushing to her next meeting. The post-conquest look is Bond through and through. She doesn’t have time for chintz, frills or bull shit. She has time to look amazing, wear minimal make-up and race past like a riddle that you’re left thinking about for the rest of the day. Jolting, turning cinematic pans and cuts in this fashion film are reminiscent of social media platforms’ debauched editing that leaves no time to blink. There is hardly time to take a sip of air: it leaves us breathless.
The collection is hosted in palatial spaces: the Salons d’Apparat of The Hôtel de la Marine and courtyard of Hôtel National des Invalides. The gilded rooms of The Hôtel de La Marine were converted from monarchic use to military meeting rooms and now a fashion pilgrimage-point. True to the space, naval military touches are visible in the collection, since army officials used to meet here. Hence, our imagination that this collection might be worn by french spies. Dressed perfectly tailored pleated or sequinned, the over sixty looks are unified by a military yet opulent edge. Sunglasses are obligatory and worn by the full cast. Marinière jumper and military trench coats are prominent features, particularly the billowing trench in cedar-moss green. Also, we love Celine’s sequins: wide chunky rectangles or pricks of sparkle make us think of links of armour or a disguise. Casual looks include jeans and trousers that cascade over platformed trainers and boots: the uniform of the Parisian lady.

The set flickers between the gilded simulation and a black neon-lit parallel catwalk. Dark space, void of geography, is characteristic of the digital – reminding watchers this video acts as an altered reality that transports us to Paris through the internet. In our black light-up box (phone or laptop) we glimpse some fleeting glamour of Paris. Through the key-hole of the internet ladies do the stride of pride (better than the walk of shame). A stand-out look is the mohair cardigan paired with cotton blue boxer shorts, cat-eye shades and stompy black boots. The shorts are crisp, it she looks like she’s on her way from a conquest where she lost her skirt, but she’s so confident we accept men’s pants worn as shorts as the cutting edge of fashion. The crossover of this garment’s context is the sexy part, rather than the silhouette itself. It’s smart – like these agents of Celine’s glamour.
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