Held annually in May, Australian Fashion Week has evolved to become a major industry occasion in the Asia-Pacific calendar. This year’s event, which ran from May 13th to May 17th, saw the presentation of the new Resort 2025 season. From Alix Higgins’ digital prints to Injury’s cyberpunk metallics, here’s a roundup of our favourite shows of the season.
Alix Higgins
The excitement was palpable as guests waited to see Alix Higgins’ Resort 2025 collection. Presenting at Australian Fashion Week for the third consecutive year, the Sydney-based designer (and Marine Serre alumnus) has been enjoying a steady ascent. Leading with bold and evocative Internet-inspired garments, Higgins has established a loyal buyer base both at home and abroad. Troye Sivan, Hunter Schafer and Grimes are among the converted.
Higgins latest collection is titled I Forgive You God. Building upon the designer’s established vocabulary, this collection saw a return to text and poetry as a communication device. The words ‘Paris Opera’, ‘crush’ and ‘edging’ are collaged over digitally printed scarves, polos and t-shirts. Fingerprints are repurposed as polka dots on sweatshirts and tanks. On the third day of the event, Higgins presented a collection that was, above all, human. Moving with lightness and confidence, Higgins showed, once again, that he is one of the most exciting designers working in Australia (or anywhere) today.
Injury
The Injury show conjured up a futurist utopia, characterised by metallic accessories, utilitarian garments and sharp silhouettes. Conceived by creative director Eugene Leung and design and brand director Dan Tse, this a world that merges physical and speculative realities.
Titled 55555, the brand’s newest collection was an ode to transformation. The runway was set against an immersive film created in collaboration with independent CG art and music collective Real Parent. Against a huge screen and a booming techno soundscape, android-like models stomped down the runway cloaked in shiny leather and acid-wash denim. Powerful and cohesive, it was a show that boldly asserted the very essence of Injury.
Wackie Ju
On the final day of Australian Fashion Week, Melbourne-based designer Jackie Wu https://www.instagram.com/wackie.ju/ presented a sophomore runway that left an indelible impression on everyone who attended. Titled Saviour, the show skilfully weaved narrative and storytelling into contemporary design.
As guests trickled into the gallery, they were enveloped by an immersive soundscape designed by music director Sha Weatherby. Beating drums, gusts of wind and piercing birdcall opened a portal to Yuanmingyuang, a historic Ruins Park in Beijing that was looted by British troops and its allies during the Second Opium War. Wu memorialises this dark moment from her hometown with a collection that is ethereal and light.
Pillowy capes and sheer tunics draped the models’ bodies as they marched, ran and floated down the runway. Silky, silvery Chinese sets showed mastery over traditional silhouettes, and the careful use of wool and yarn indicated a true reverence for textiles. The show concluded with a remarkable piece of theatre that was deeply felt: a model shuddered down the runway, enclosed in a heavy, woollen coat. Then, the lights turned red, and a siren-sound commenced. Performers hidden amongst the crowd leapt to the stage and stripped the model’s outerwear to reveal a white gown splattered with bloody crimson. A standing ovation followed.
Albus Lumen
Headed by founder and creative director Marina Afonina, Albus Lumen https://www.instagram.com/albuslumen/ has, since 2015, been defined by its soft silhouettes and muted palettes. This season, however, saw a marked change in direction. Albus Lumen’s newest runway, titled Rebellion, boldly announced a new era for the label. Frayed hems, spray-painted blazers and dip-dyed denim are the cornerstones of this new collection. Models walked down the runway with an intensity that was instantly compelling.
But perhaps most impressive of all was Afonina’s tangible commitment to sustainability and longevity. This collection was born out of the label’s archives; a clever creative decision that ensures the continuity of the brand’s existing narrative in an era of transformation. By repurposing garments from previous collections and reinventing them with new elements and treatments, Afonina has shown herself to be both a resourceful and thoughtful designer.
Blanca
Blanca’s Resort 2025 runway was picture perfect. The sun was shining as guests floated into the gardens of Vaucluse House, a nineteenth-century estate nestled in Sydney’s eastern suburbs. Jardin, Blanca’s new collection, bursts with vibrant colours and blooming motifs. It’s a nostalgic exploration of summers past.
Designed to seamlessly transport its wearers from one occasion to the next, this collection favours familiar silhouettes over complicated forms. Think oversized shirts, boxy blazers and tailored shorts. Models walked down the runway with ease and nonchalance (both hallmarks of the Blanca woman) and moved effortlessly in relaxed cuts and layered looks. High-octane hues of crimson, cyan and orange added depth to basic silhouettes, whilst fish scale sequins and lace added texture and tang. A minimalist collection with maximalist tendencies.