If Joseph Altuzarra, creative director of the eponymous fashion brand, can be proud of something, it is designing a beautiful collection; one that may require a second look to fully appreciate, since the first glance is not enough to register everything it has to offer. This idea also serves as the inspiration for the Spring/Summer 2026 collection: imagine catching someone in the corner of your eye, only to see a completely different image when you look again. What is real, and what is illusion?
Both the now inescapable conversation around AI and the idea of femininity play by these rules: what is and what isn’t AI? What truly defines femininity? This collection, presented at New York Fashion Week, is precisely a surreal exploration of both questions. Familiar elements tied to the traditional idea of women’s clothing (think florals, feathers, lace) are twisted into strange, unexpected forms, reflecting the dissonance of our times and the shifting shape of modern delicacy. As Altuzarra explains, the collection aims to evoke the effect of a “funhouse mirror”: odd distortions that quietly make their presence felt.
Key pieces include upturned feather accents, mink-like shearling separates, surrealist bird motifs, oversized leather jackets, miniature origami clutches, and sheer hula-hoop–inspired dresses. These elements never appear loud; instead, they are gracefully woven into elegant, classic designs. Fluid floral silk dresses seem simply printed at first, but upon closer inspection, reveal 3D laser-cut blooms appliquéd onto them. This collaging of elements becomes the standout gesture of the collection: an invitation to play and experiment with fashion without saying goodbye to a refined, polished style.
The collection also explores femininity through bold silhouettes: ballooning trousers, sculptural volumes, unusual necklines, and broad shapes paired with sharp tailoring. These are juxtaposed with flowing dresses marked by fluid lines and soft, romantic details.
Altuzarra’s Spring/Summer 2026 collection ultimately offers a beautiful dialogue between femininity and strength. It feels familiar yet subtly surprising: a reminder that the classic can be playful and, at times, delightfully surreal.
