Before the first model even walked out at Acne Studios, I was already hooked. The show opened with an original soundtrack by Robyn — slower rhythms, layered vocals, a build-up that kept climbing. It wasn’t just the typical background you just kind of ignore; it set the atmosphere so perfectly that by the time the lights hit the runway, you were twice as alert, waiting for that first look to strike. And knowing it included new material and a re-record of her 2005 track Robotboy with Yung Lean only made it better — a clever ace up Acne Studios’ sleeve.
And then, the clothes. The collection came loaded with strong, androgynous energy with women in transposed suit jackets, uniform shirts tucked into gauzy skirts, and slashed jeans. This wasn’t entirely new territory for Acne: deconstructed denim and gender-fluid tailoring have been part of their vocabulary since the 2000s, but here it felt pushed further.
What caught my eye instantly was the jewellery. Heavy, oversized earrings in amber, turquoise, and sage clung to some of the models — accessories that refused to stay in the background. They framed the faces adding a charged sensuality to the whole thing. Jonny Johansson summed it up himself: “I’ve always felt that creativity is about being able to see the world in a way you didn’t realise could be seen.” And that’s exactly what this show did with clothes that blurred archetypes, made femininity fluid, and gave every look a new posture.
The setting also amplified that mood. Inside the Collège des Bernardins, Acne Studios had transformed a vaulted medieval hall into a moody cigar lounge making it more intimate. Silano’s artwork framed the runway with images that underscore the collection’s exploration of intimacy and self-expression.
With their Spring/Summer 2026, Acne Studios confirmed that its place in today’s fashion landscape remains strong. Nearing thirty years, the brand still knows how to translate its identity into something that feels of the moment without losing sight of itself.
