Three weeks ago, 1/OFF presented its Spring/Summer 2025 collection, Eternal, at Amsterdam Fashion Week. After attending their latest show held at Door Open Space, where we all sat on scaffolding and models walked through a tunnel, we felt the need to know more about the origins, vision, and future plans of its founder, Renée van Wijngaarden. Now it's time to learn more about this designer and entrepreneur who, as a child, looked up to Miuccia Prada and Alexander McQueen and who has made sustainability, uniqueness, and craftsmanship the pillars of her fashion brand.
Having parents working in the fashion industry, Renée was determined to change course and develop her career in another sector after having seen the complexities of a system that is not easy to enter and stay in. However, she somehow ended up accepting her fate and fell in love with this vast and global industry, first working at Vestiaire Collective to shape the brand experience on the seller side and then daring to start her own brand, 1/OFF. Now that the project has just turned five years old, we talk to her about this high-voltage adventure.
1OFF_2.jpg
Renée, first of all, I'd like to congratulate you on your last fashion show in Amsterdam Fashion Week. Are you happy with the final result?
Thank you, David. I believe I am; we all worked very hard, and it all came pretty much to life as we hoped it would be. We really wanted to create a memory together with the team and audience.
Before delving into your latest presentation and the present situation of your brand, let's travel through time to the very beginning. I read that your father ran a fashion brand, didn't he? How do you remember your childhood?
Yes indeed, he is a creative entrepreneur at heart who built a successful fashion brand in the wholesale market. I am a twin and grew up in the city of Amsterdam; my childhood was very dynamic. As a twin, I’ve always had someone by my side, someone who was both my greatest support and my fiercest competitor. I truly believe that growing up, this constant companionship naturally pushed me to strive for more, to always improve and challenge myself, and to really look for what drives me as an individual as well. Our dad built a fashion brand and our mom a franchise company both in fashion. In my childhood, my sister and I helped out in the store as well as at my dad's office. These experiences gave me a deep understanding of the work and resilience required to make things happen, but also how much it occupies your life and headspace.
Was there a specific moment when you realised that you wanted to dedicate yourself professionally to fashion, or did it come about more naturally and progressively?
During my studies and my teenage years, I was determined not to pursue a career in fashion, partly out of rebellion against my background. I wanted to carve my own path and explore other interests. However, as I embarked on my professional life, I discovered a profound passion for fashion that I hadn't anticipated. Having parents working in the industry, I saw firsthand the complexities and constraints of the system. I realised how much potential there was for change, and it sparked something within me.
The beauty and creativity of fashion captivated me, but I also felt a strong urge to challenge the status quo. This awakening ignited my desire to not only create but also to advocate for a more sustainable and inclusive approach to fashion. Embracing my roots and my newfound passion, I now strive to make a meaningful impact in the industry, merging my rebellious spirit with a commitment to innovation and responsibility.
Who were your favourite designers and brands when you were a teenager?
I grew up in the '90s and went to high school in the early 2000s, a time when brands like Diesel and Von Dutch were incredibly influential. I was drawn to them for their edgy, street-smart aesthetic, which felt rebellious and fresh to me as a teenager. However, when it came to designers, I was captivated by the brilliance of Miuccia Prada and Alexander McQueen. Prada’s ability to blend sophistication with innovation, creating wearable yet timeless pieces, really resonated with me. On the other hand, McQueen’s fearless approach to fashion as an art form. Transforming the runway into a stage for bold, provocative storytelling, was something I admired deeply. Together, they embodied the perfect balance of class and creativity, which still inspires me today.
Before taking the step of creating your own brand, 1/OFF, you worked for Vestiaire Collective in Paris and Berlin. What was your role in the company, and how was the experience? What was the most valuable lesson you learnt during this time?
My role at Vestiaire Collective was focused on shaping the brand experience on the seller side of the platform. I was responsible for overseeing the look, feel, and overall performance, creating campaigns to encourage people to sell more, and forging brand collaborations to engage the right target audiences. It was an incredible experience that taught me the intricacies of scaling a brand while navigating a rapidly evolving digital marketplace. The most valuable industry lesson I learnt was the sheer volume of products already circulating in our society—there's a real demand for second-hand fashion, but the key is making it feel new, exciting, and desirable to the consumer.
This insight deeply influenced my approach to fashion sustainability and sparked ideas on how to reframe the second-hand market. On a personal level, I realised how much I missed working directly with a product. It was during this time that I conceived the idea for 1/OFF, combining the thrill of discovering something unique with the deep value of heritage. I wanted to create a brand that not only champions individuality but also reshapes how we think about fashion by giving pre-loved items new life and merging creativity with sustainability.
1OFF_1.jpg
In 2019, you decided to start your personal project, not knowing that one year later the global pandemic would burst into our lives and turn them upside down. How did you cope with this difficult time that caused the extinction of many brands and companies all over the world?
When I launched 1/OFF in 2019, of course I had no idea the world was about to face such unprecedented challenges with the pandemic. It was a time filled with uncertainty, but it ultimately tested and strengthened my resolve as an entrepreneur. The difficulties we faced were significant, and I recognise that we missed out on many traditional learning opportunities due to the unique circumstances. However, our core values were perfectly aligned with the shifting consumer behaviour during that period.
People increasingly sought meaningful purchases, and sustainability became a top priority for many. This created a unique opportunity for us, as we could cater to a growing demand for ethical products. Additionally, the sense of community among businesses was palpable; companies were more willing to collaborate and support one another in navigating these tough times. This collective resilience not only helped us survive but also reinforced the importance of our mission.
What were the first steps you took as a brand? Could you tell us about the first decisions you had to make and the first challenges you faced?
The first steps I took as a brand were centred around defining the sales channels and market positioning for 1/OFF. Given that every product we create is unique and handmade, establishing the right price point was crucial. I quickly realised that for customers to understand and appreciate the value of these one-of-a-kind pieces, everything about the brand needed to align with that message. This meant selecting the right B2B clients who shared our vision, creating high-quality imagery that reflected the craftsmanship, and ensuring that our customer service provided a personalised, premium experience. It wasn’t just about selling a product; it was about communicating the story behind each piece and why it was worth investing in.
One of the biggest challenges we faced early on was production. Consistency is key in fashion, but at 1/OFF, no two items are the same. We had to figure out how to maintain a certain standard of quality and design, even when working with different vintage pieces. Another major challenge was scalability. How could we grow when each item was custom-made? We also needed to secure a reliable supply of vintage garments, sourcing enough high-quality pieces to meet demand while staying true to our ethos of sustainability. Balancing creativity, production efficiency, and market demand was a constant learning curve, but it also laid the foundation for what makes 1/OFF so distinctive.
Through your brand, you celebrate the legacy of grand designer design, transforming high-end vintage into contemporary manifestations and championing the upcycling movement, as we read on your website. Were you always clear about what the concept and identity of your brand would be?
I always knew that the core of 1/OFF would be about bringing vintage or leftover pieces back into the cycle of contemporary fashion. The idea of upcycling and transforming high-end vintage into modern, wearable art was central from the start. However, as the brand has evolved, we’ve refined our approach and made changes to how we execute that vision. Despite these developments, we have always remained true to our core values of sustainability, uniqueness, and craftsmanship. The concept of celebrating the legacy of designs while creating something new and relevant has been at the heart of 1/OFF since day one.
What is the process of ideation, development, and creation like at 1/OFF? How many phases does it have, and how many people are involved?
It's both creative and collaborative, involving several phases and a diverse team. We begin by establishing a mood or feeling for the new collection—a world that serves as our guiding inspiration. This could be influenced by anything from art and culture to current trends or even a specific emotion we want to evoke. Simultaneously, we dive deep into sourcing, exploring the types of vintage garments we want to transform and what our suppliers have available. This phase is crucial, as the unique materials we work with define the possibilities for the collection.
A key part of our development process also involves working with the results of experiments from the previous season. Some of our most innovative designs come from iterating on past creations, fine-tuning ideas, or exploring how new techniques can push the boundaries of upcycling. At the same time, we’re constantly experimenting with new ideas, from different garment combinations to innovative construction techniques. There are multiple phases to the process: conceptualising, sourcing, experimenting, refining, and finally, production.
Each phase involves a range of team members, from designers and pattern makers to our production manager and vintage suppliers. Collaboration is key, as each person's input helps shape the final product.
Do you remember what was the first piece you sold? When was it, and how did you feel?
Yes, I do! It was a Burberry trench coat that we had transformed by turning it inside out. It felt like the start of something truly new and exciting. That moment was a confirmation that our concept resonated with people and that upcycling could offer something fresh, unique, and desirable.
1OFF_22.jpg
After five years of running your brand, what has changed and what remains the same?
Lots have changed! I started the concept with production in-house, transforming mainly branded vintage with no understanding of the needs of stores. I have been working really hard to find a sweet spot for the uniqueness of the product but also finding the product market fit. Something new is that we are combining the vintage with new fabrics so we can determine fit better and be more consistent in quality. And at the same time, a new world opens for the designs as we have more to work with.
Just three weeks ago, you presented your latest collection, Eternal, at Door Open Space, a warehouse in Amsterdam-Noord, during Amsterdam Fashion Week. Could you tell us more about it?
Tuesday evening, we presented our SS25 collection at AFW. In its fifth year, 1/OFF unveiled the show Eternal. The show symbolises a continuous process of experimentation and the pursuit of our dreams. In the first brainstorm, I was updating my wise friend Floris Kreulen on how our collection and concept have evolved and how some ideas haven't made it till the fifth year. Also sharing the most difficult things that came on my path last year and what I had to conquer. His response was with a laugh on his face: “We are not going to make it,” reminding me to value everything that moves me, to embrace the chaos and to never shy away from experimenting with new ways to get closer to my dreams—even when the journey takes unexpected turns.
The words were so powerful to me that I wanted to symbolise this process of experimentation by having the public sit on scaffolding and models walk through a tunnel. Symbolising that under construction, the process is the most valuable part of what we do, and that is, in my opinion, how we can change our industry: by trying and experimenting to do better. Although I sadly lost Floris a week after the initial brainstorming for this show, his spirit lives on in the work. Material things may be lost, but the memories and inspiration remain eternal. That is the reason why creating these moments is so important to me to share my vision of building a new fashion ecosystem.
What is the most technically complex item in this collection?
Hmm, every design definitely has its own complexity. However, the red denim is rather complex because we work with several vintage legs and vintage jeans to create this new silhouette. The patterns need to be created for small pieces of fabric, taking into consideration that a good fit in denim is often already of high complexity. On top of that, all the different legs have had their own treatments, and therefore the outcome if we treat the new upcycled denim varies sometimes and is hard to control.
In this latest collection, you have collaborated with Nespresso, with whom you have created accessories made from melted aluminum coffee capsules. What would you highlight about this collaboration, and how important is it that large companies support the vision of creative minds?
I believe these partnerships are absolutely vital in today's creative landscape. Collaborating with a brand like Nespresso not only enhances our ability to innovate but also elevates our message about sustainability in fashion. By using melted aluminum coffee capsules, we’re not just creating unique accessories but also highlighting the importance of recycling and rethinking materials in a meaningful way. The support from large companies allows us to amplify our vision and reach a broader audience.
Without this collaboration, we wouldn’t have the resources to present our work on such a grand scale. It’s a symbiotic relationship: large brands can tap into the creativity and fresh perspectives of independent designers, while we gain the infrastructure and platform to share our ideas. This kind of support is crucial for fostering innovation and driving change in the industry.
Now that Paris Fashion Week is about to end, I can't help but ask you which brands inspire you the most. What has been your favourite fashion show so far this season?
While I haven’t had the chance to catch many shows yet, Issey Miyake's presentation was truly breathtaking. The artistry and innovation were captivating. I also admire Hodakova for its incredible creativity and unique silhouettes crafted from unconventional materials.
And what are the next steps for 1/OFF? Would you like to continue showing your work in Amsterdam, or are you open to exploring other platforms and fashion weeks?
1/OFF is preparing for the next phase of our journey. We have fine-tuned our production processes and achieved a strong balance in our collection, allowing us to focus on building robust markets and increasing our visibility. We're excited to create memorable experiences that will help drive our industry in a new direction. Together, we aim to inspire positive change and elevate the conversation around sustainability and meaningful consumption.
1OFF_5.jpg
1OFF_6.jpg
1OFF_9.jpg
1OFF_10.jpg
1OFF_11.jpg
1OFF_12.jpg
1OFF_27.jpg
1OFF_24.jpg
1OFF_14.jpg
1OFF_15.jpg
1OFF_18.jpg
1OFF_19.jpg
1OFF_17.jpg
1OFF_13.jpg
1OFF_4.jpg
1OFF_23.jpg
1OFF_25.jpg
1OFF_21.jpg
1OFF_7.jpg
1OFF_8.jpg