New York Fashion Week S/S 2025

Alaïa made a powerful statement by choosing the Guggenheim as the venue for its latest collection—marking the first fashion show ever held in the iconic space. Paying homage to Azzedine Alaïa’s first major show from the 1960s, this show was both a tribute to fashion history and a groundbreaking moment for the brand.

Pieter Mulier took Alaïa's signature draping to new heights, delivering a collection that reinterpreted classic influences with a modern sensibility. The luxurious fabrics and dramatic silhouettes danced down the runway, highlighting Mulier's skill in creating clothing that feels both structured and fluid.

Spain landed in New York with the showcase of Palomo Spain’s All of Heaven’s Parties, a celebration of human impulses and desires free from the constraints of divine judgment. The collection took inspiration from Palomo’s experiences in underground rave culture and the provocative works of Nobuyoshi Araki and Helmut Newton, turning the runway into a bold statement on sexuality.

The designs were a masterclass in mixing textures and cultural references. Palomo Spain combined rich fabrics like denim, taffeta, and silk organza with traditional Spanish techniques such as handmade embroidery and silk fringing. With a dramatic colour palette of black, white, and earthy tones accented by oversized sequins and Swarovski crystals, Palomo once again demonstrated his flair for blending the old and the new.

Willy Chavarria's NYFW show was a celebration of immigrant identity and also a call for unity. His collection, aptly titled America, transformed a Wall Street industrial space into a poignant backdrop for his exploration of immigration and its impact on American culture.

The show was a visual feast, combining elements of workwear, athletic wear, and upscale fashion. The designer drew inspiration from key historical moments, such as the United Farm Workers, the Civil Rights movement, and women's liberation, highlighting the power of collective action and the importance of unity. The collaboration with Adidas added a contemporary edge to the collection, featuring modern tops, shorts, and track jackets. The appearance of Olympic athlete Noah Lyles further elevated the energy and excitement of the event.

Raul Lopez’s Luar show at Rockefeller Center was an unmissable highlight of New York Fashion Week. With a star-studded front row, Madonna included, and rapper Offset gracing the runway, Lopez once again proved why he's dominating the industry.

The collection featured a dynamic mix of streetwear and high fashion, drawing inspiration from Lopez’s Brooklyn upbringing. Oversized coats, sharp suits, and sleek dresses all had an edgy, rebellious energy, enhanced by bold makeup and styling. Standout pieces included long mermaid skirts, classic pant suits, cropped track jackets, and knitted dresses. Lopez masterfully blended urban street style with high-fashion elegance, creating looks that felt both cool and sophisticated. 

Wiederhoeft’s collection, Dearly Loved Children and Warriors of the Living Breath, focused on body positivity and creating a tailored fit for all women. As the models took to the runway, they showcased a mix of floor-length gowns, structured mini dresses, and the iconic corsets, all adorned with intricate details like sequins, crystals, and bows. The pieces balanced a sense of glamour with a deeply personal, artistic edge. The show’s finale featured a procession of ethereal brides in white, corseted ensembles and long veils, blending traditional bridal elements with Wiederhoeft’s unique, avant-garde vision.

Just when we thought the party was over, Who Decides War’s show took centre stage to celebrate the label’s 10th collection. Designers Ev Bravado and Téla D’Amore presented a stunning fusion of Victorian elegance and experimental modernity, blending timeless classicism with bold, contemporary twists.

The collection featured a masterful use of traditional fabrics, such as cotton, linen, terry, denim, leather, and lace, which were deconstructed, recontextualised, and transformed into fantastical garments. The opulence and maximalism of the collection were striking, with hourglass-shaped cotton shirts for men and crinkled cotton dresses for women. Leather belts were reformatted as gowns, and denim was coated with shine and layered in Who Decides War's signature style. Delicate durag veils and sheer linen added a touch of sensuality to the collection. Collaborations with Pelle Pelle and Jordan Brand further elevated the collection's appeal.

Living up to the hype, Grace Ling presented Neanderthal. The designer's approach to tailoring and knitwear, combined with her masterful use of 3D technology, resulted in a collection that was both visually stunning and intellectually stimulating.

The collection explored the complex relationship between humans and their surroundings, utilising a surreal and ethereal setting to create a sense of wonder and intrigue. The show's diverse cast showcased a balance of ready-to-wear and couture looks, highlighting the versatility of Ling's designs. Ling's signature strong suits, including structured hemlines, subtle draping, and technical elements, were on full display in this collection. The collection's understated, neutral colour palette allowed each silhouette to take centre stage, highlighting the intricate craftsmanship and attention to detail that went into each piece.

Ib Kamara's latest collection for Off-White delivered a powerful and inspiring fusion of African heritage and American sportswear. The collection featured a striking blend of cultural narratives and contemporary design. In menswear, distorted denim with zippers, plaid pants, and hooded sweaters ribbed with crystals offered a modern take on classic streetwear. The addition of cream jackets with padded shoulders added a refined touch while maintaining the collection's urban practicality. For women, the collection offered asymmetric skirts resembling hoodies and high-neck, fitted zip-ups. The Off-White™'s signature branding further enhanced the collection's impact.

Romeo Hunte presented a nostalgic ode to the Brooklyn of his youth, drawing inspiration from the iconic coming-of-age film Crooklyn. The designer's signature streetwear aesthetic is infused with a youthful, early-'90s vibe, reminiscent of high school kids’ casual dress codes. Key pieces in the collection include sagged pants in various styles, sleeveless silk tops, and standout upside-down polos. The Brooklyn-inspired aesthetic was further emphasised by the projection of a brownstone-lined block onto the walls of the show space.

“You bring the body, I bring the shape.” Melitta Baumeister, renowned for her bold, sculptural designs, explored bodies in motion as the central theme of her SS25 collection. The fluidity and grace of her garments reflected this vision, while a contemporary ballet performance and an opening walk by Paralympic sprinter Scout Bassett beautifully underscored the deep connection between movement and fashion.

Baumeister's sculptural approach, rooted in innovative materials and experimental techniques, resulted in visually striking and impeccably constructed pieces. Her ability to combine bold design elements with meticulous craftsmanship solidified her position as a leading figure in the fashion world.