New York Fashion Week F/W 2025

Thom Browne's runway show, set against a dreamlike backdrop of 2,000 origami birds, was a breathtaking act, a bold statement that fashion should defy boundaries, not adhere to them. Browne himself described his Fall/Winter 2025 collection as "a story about the freedom to be really true to yourself and express things exactly as you want to express them.” The show itself was a performance art piece. Two "ornithologists," dressed in classic grey Thom Browne suits, opened the show, observing the models as if they were rare, exotic birds—and indeed they were. Deconstructed suits, exaggerated silhouettes, voluminous petticoats, and dramatic ball skirts transformed tailoring into something poetic: both rigid and fluid, structured yet weightless.

Bird motifs dominated the collection, appearing as satin stitch embroidery and shimmering gold bullion. Models sported feathery eyelashes and canary yellow accents, a playful reference to Browne's high school mascot. Repurposed neckties became garments, lending a collegiate, deconstructed feel. A stunning Swarovski collaboration crystallised Browne's signature greyscale, turning tradition into pure magic. Each detail—every meticulously placed pleat, every rebellious cut—spoke of self-expression, a rejection of the conventional, and a celebration of individuality.

New York Fashion Week wouldn't be the same without Raul Lopez, founder and director of Luar. His Fall/Winter 2025 collection transcended mere fashion, becoming a powerful and deeply personal statement. This season, Lopez reclaimed his identity, celebrated queer joy, and paid tribute to the tenacity of New York City's LGBTQIA+ community. His own experiences of prejudice and discrimination growing up in the city profoundly shaped his creative vision, and this collection directly confronted those painful memories, transforming hurtful language into symbols of strength and self-acceptance.

Each look on the runway told a story of resilience and self-expression. Striking moments abounded, from a bold white crocodile suit with a dramatically asymmetrical shoulder to a grey knit catsuit that reclaimed a once-mocked gesture. Luxurious textures and opulent silhouettes added drama. Interspersed with these show-stopping pieces were more accessible items like tailored jeans, cropped jackets, and dramatic topcoats. Lopez's designs, such as a t-shirt reading "I talk s–t about you in Spanish" paired with a dramatic feather headpiece, deftly blended humour, defiance, and high fashion, reflecting the complex nature of identity.

Elena Velez's collection, Leech, represents a significant step in her exploration of the complex "shadow woman" muse. Drawing from allegory and American aspiration, Velez delves into the dualities of this figure, presenting an autobiographical exploration of herself as founder, muse, and brand. The immersive experience began as attendees entered a transformed Artechouse, now a mythical "maritime abyss" with projected rocky waters and scattered stone sculptures.

Divided into three distinct personas—The Captain's Daughter, The Land Walker, and The Leech—the thirty looks presented a challenge to societal norms. Ropes, netting, and metal accents adorned garments, reflecting the Velez woman's multifaceted nature: a "priestess" with ancient wisdom, both "unknowable and unfathomable," shedding the constraints of prescribed identity. The collection featured striking, raunchy ruffled dresses, tattered tops resembling seaweed, and other dramatic pieces, alongside more commercially viable offerings like work jackets, leather pieces, trench coats, and trousers. These "basics," reimagined through Velez's distinctive lens, further emphasised the collection's exploration of female power, particularly at a time when traditional narratives feel increasingly obsolete.

Sandy Liang is always on a mission to make everything about girlhood, and we loved it for this season too. Her FW25 collection delves even deeper into this theme, exploring childhood nostalgia and the playful act of dress-up. In contrast to the prevalent muted tones and recessioncore styles seen in many other collections this season, Liang's work offers an optimistic, dopamine-infused escape reminiscent of a John Hughes film, reimagined through a Polly Pocket lens. The collection playfully incorporates elements of '80s and '90s fashion, including prom-inspired metallic skirts and frosty lips, office-ready polka dots and midi skirts, and sporty fleece sets.

Liang's exploration of growing up manifests in a childhood fantasy capsule inspired by '90s toys like Furbies and Polly Pockets. Leggings feature polka dots, hoodies bloom with florals, bags resemble pencil cases, and printed skirts showcase scans of Liang's childhood planner and origami stills. A playful "Polly Pocket" design element sees skirts with miniature skirts embroidered on them, dresses with dresses, and tops with tops. By merging childhood nostalgia with her signature feminine, cool NYC aesthetic, Liang has created an escapist collection that resonates with her established fanbase, the "lemony garlic miso gochujang brown butter pasta" girlies, while remaining true to her artistic vision.

Since launching Khaite nearly a decade ago, Catherine Holstein has established the brand as a New York Fashion Week must-see, consistently delivering designs that resonate with modern women. This season was no exception. While no show notes were provided, Khaite's collection clearly catered to a woman practically dressed to kill—a modern-day femme fatale.

Fall/Winter 2025 offered a perfectly curated selection for the coming season, showcasing luxurious materials like supple leather (skirts, dresses, jackets), cosy knits, and timeless trench coats. The colour palette, anchored by black, grey, neutrals, and Khaite's signature oxblood, exuded refined elegance. The styling, destined to influence trends, featured looks like jeans tucked into boots and artfully layered bottoms, with touches of sheer sweaters and leopard print adding sophisticated allure. Standout pieces included the oxford-grey draped waist dress and the finale look, a striking leather trench coat—very elegant, very mindful. Even the newsboy cap was given a fresh, modern twist. Exceptional accessories, including over-the-knee boots, gloves, and elegant handbags, further elevated the collection, solidifying Khaite's position as a purveyor of modern, desirable fashion.

Anna Sui’s Fall/Winter 2025 collection revisits her signature approach of reimagining vintage styles and, of course, succeeding at it. Drawing inspiration from the “madcap heiress” and figures like Barbara Hutton, Doris Duke, and Peggy Guggenheim, the collection evokes a sense of romantic nostalgia, particularly for the 1920s and 1960s. The runway showcased a mix of colors and textures, including tartan suiting, jewel tones, Mongolian fur trims, cloche hats, and embroidery. Modern updates appeared in leopard bucket hats, a sequined coat, and sheer blouses.

The collection’s theme of extravagant living was reinforced by the soundtrack and the accessories. John Fluevog shoes, Erickson Beamon jewellery, and Mondottica sunglasses all contributed to the maximalist aesthetic. Other accessories, such as arm warmers, hats, and XL belts, further emphasised the idea of personal extravagance and “unfettered tastes.”

Stuart Vevers once again transformed the Park Avenue Armoury, presenting a Fall/Winter 2025 collection for Coach that felt both nostalgic and undeniably modern. The urban, almost raw set design created an electric atmosphere, the perfect backdrop for a lineup radiating downtown attitude and effortless cool. Vevers masterfully played with contrasts, seamlessly blending high fashion with rebellious street energy. Distressed leathers, oversized denim, and bold graphic tees took centre stage, redefining youthful self-expression. Luxurious fabrics like argyle and Lurex received a contemporary remix, while Coach's signature leather goods were reimagined with playful, unexpected details. Bags adorned with stuffed animals and quirky embellishments made a clear statement: fashion transcends age; it's all about attitude.

The accessories amplified the collection's cool factor. Chunky, colorful eyewear exuded a "cooler than you" vibe, while mini leather jackets and styled-over-the- trousers layering gave classic pieces a fresh, edgy spin. Vevers's commitment to heritage craftsmanship and repurposed materials underscored Coach's dedication to sustainability, proving that style can be both timeless and of the moment.

For her Fall/Winter 25 collection, Kim Shui challenged established beliefs and learnt behaviours, prompting a reconsideration of traditional power structures, identity, and intimacy. Shui presented a forty-three-look collection exploring the interplay of sensuality and restraint through texture and form, describing this show as a "visual and tactile journey" delving into agency, control, and resistance. Inspired by Monica Bonvicini's use of leather belts and handcuffs, Shui employed pleather as her "medium of transformation."

Laser-cut pleather, appearing fringed, draped, shredded, and distressed throughout the collection, challenged its traditional association with dominance and toughness, becoming a metaphor for the collection's overall message. Exaggerated silhouettes and tactile materials further pushed boundaries and preconceived notions of power and sensuality. Shui's designs seamlessly blended her Chinese heritage with Western culture, juxtaposing faux fur cowboy hats and bolo ties with Qipao collaring and traditional Chinese embroidery.The snake, symbolising rebirth and renewal, made a striking appearance, coiling with lace and faux fur on structured gowns and appearing in snakeskin prints on trousers and tops.

Keeping up with the highlights, Mexican label Campillo unveiled its Fall/Winter 2025 collection, drawing inspiration from the captivating realm of magical realism. Designer Patricio Campillo presented twenty-four striking looks, a vibrant tribute to his Latin heritage reimagined through a contemporary lens. Distressed suits, asymmetrical draping, textured coats and jackets, and bold, broad-shouldered formalwear formed the foundation of the collection. The styling was undeniably impactful, with layered belts (more is definitely more) and distinctive caps emerging as the standout accessories. The show was a constant stream of successful looks, each piece a statement on identity and the blurring of lines between reality and fantasy.

Joseph Altuzarra's Fall/Winter 2025 collection, presented at the Woolworth Building, felt deeply personal, like paging through the intimate chapters of a woman's life. The press release found at the venue described the season's focus as shifting "from narrative to a singular, compelling character—a woman who wears her history as armour, unafraid to show her scars." Altuzarra's collection seamlessly blended elegance and practicality, drawing inspiration from Wuthering Heights' Catherine Earnshaw.

Rugged yet refined pieces like Alpine cashmere sweaters, black riding boots, hooded greatcoats, and shearling capes evoked an adventurous elegance, suitable for both the Yorkshire moors and New York streets. Sheer chiffon and satin dresses, adorned with leaf prints and smudged kiss motifs, echoed Catherine's yearning for eternal love. Focusing on texture, Altuzarra employed pleats, draping, and fringes on textured wool sets to convey his protagonist's story through simply structured silhouettes. The result was a sensual collection true to the brand's modern aesthetic, showcasing the wardrobe of a character unafraid to acknowledge her past and display her scars.