Once again, Jonathan Anderson delights us with an exquisite collection for Loewe. For Spring/Summer 2025, the British presents loads and loads of flowers, revisits great artists from the past such as Mozart or Van Gogh, and presents dresses with opulent yet flowing structures, feathers, and rich fabrics like silk, nappa leather, or mother-of-pearl shells.
“What happens when one takes all the noise away? Is it possible to fill an empty white room, commanding attention, without shouting for space?” That’s what Anderson has tried to answer through the fifty-eight looks that make up Loewe’s new womenswear collection. In an increasingly media-driven world, where success is often based on visual virality usually devoid of profound meaning, the British designer remains consistent in creating clothing that intrigues, draws attention, and sells, without resorting to ridiculous extremes. His work is about craftsmanship, good design, playfulness, irony, and escapism—concepts on which he has been building his language for years, one that works so well at the Spanish House.
The first three looks of the collection were a sneak peek into the ‘main thing’ this season: dresses made from the finest, almost transparent silk, with impressionist floral prints that perfectly play with colours and proportion. At first glance, you might think of the overused phrase: florals? For spring? Groundbreaking. What is truly groundbreaking in Anderson’s work is the mastery with which he has constructed them: structures reminiscent of the heavy, artificial, and constricting crinolines of the Baroque era, but here transformed into something light, offering a liberating movement to the fabric and creating unexpected, asymmetric, and irregular silhouettes.
Another strong point of the collection is the treatment of the fabrics, especially leather. Yes, it’s a hallmark of the brand, as Loewe’s artisans have been working with it for over a century and a half, but it remains something worth highlighting. After the first three dresses, the fourth look demonstrates precisely this: a cropped jacket that’s somewhere between a bolero and a poncho, and wide trousers with front draping that appear as soft as the silk we’ve seen before. We also see it in other pieces such as trench coats and, of course, in the accessories, like the new Puzzle or the latest addition to the family, the Madrid bag, which debuts on the Paris runway.
We must also mention Anderson’s tributes to artists of the past, such as composers Bach, Chopin, and Mozart, or painters Van Gogh and Manet, in feathered tops that blend the delicacy of the material with the rebellious spirit of rock bands merchandise. And how could we not talk about the sequin micro-dresses in orange, blue, or brown, which also challenge that balance between edgy and elegant? As always, Loewe’s creative director demonstrates his abundant talent and why he is one of the most highly regarded designers in the industry right now.
