Balancing the comfort of tracksuits (in collab with Puma) and the formality of two-piece suits, Demna presents Balenciaga’s new Winter 2025 collection as “a study of standard dress codes, and what it takes to twist standard fits and garments into a fashion context,” he explains. Recently shown in Paris, the runway’s set design mimicked a maze, a metaphor for the creative process, something people have reflected on (without a clear conclusion) since the dawn of time.
As usual, black, grey, and the blue of denim are predominant in Balenciaga’s new collection, with some pops of colours here and there (a hot pink puffer and a long dress with a massive slit on the leg, a vibrant red, floor-length coat, a floor-length hoodie in cerulean). And also as we’ve grown accustomed to, Demna strikes a balance between oversized silhouettes and more fitted patterns (like button-down shirts or puffer jackets with corseted structures) — even if it’s the ultra large that defines the House’s collection.
One of the most relevant parts of the collection is the collaboration with Puma, which results in lowbrow looks consisting of tracksuits, windbreaker jackets, hoodies, vests, and the Speedcats Ultrasoft shows with a destroyed formstrip — destroyed footwear has been a part of Demna’s vocabulary for several seasons now. But he also shows innovation in sartorial pieces, including double-breasted coats that incorporate hoodies and scarfs in their own construction, making the case for two-in-one clothes.
Another highlight of the collection relies on the bags. Especially in the opening looks, consisting of two-piece suits, the models wear briefcases with convertible handles, which further reinvent formalwear. Also, clutches, purse puches, and other mini bags are designed for hands-free device use, making them comfortable yet elegant at the same time.
In all, Demna presented another collection for the House that follows the same codes as previous ones: dark, comfortable, bridging lowbrow and highbrow, and offering a reflection on today’s wardrobe.
