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Coming from the dark, times are changing for Damir Doma. We could see that at the last Pitti Immagine edition a few months ago where he presented a pre-collection for first time, throughout a magnificent show in the outdoor gardens of the Giardino Corsini in Florencia.

When you started your career your style was linked to the dark style, but we can see this changing more and more, is it something your perceive?

I was working for Raf Simons, and evolving in this creative environment, so when I started it was a natural thing. I think that today I still have kind of shadows of this in my work, something very mystic, a lot of black. But I think it's important for a designer to not be shy, and not be scared to go throughout an evolution, to also go with the time. It's the exciting part of fashion, the possibility of showing so quick, and change. It's all about change, you can't go 10 years doing the same, you have to be able to surprise, and surprise yourself. You have to able to get out of the box before it's too late.

One of the base of your label is the materials. This time the collection felt really sensual. Can you explain the importance of the fabrics in your work?

Obviously the look change a little, but every season I try to push my pieces and get them better. It's not just about the materials, of course it's important, but even more the way you cut and use them. It's kind of a sculpture, I always see myself picking the materials and try to get shapes out from it. It goes all hand in hand with the shapes. It makes the difference between the collections. I think it's really important because it lifts the look up, and the quality.

You have not only your main lines but the Silent line. Can you describe us what is the idea behind it, is it more unisex?

Basically I always start by menswear, it's my roots. So there is a little bit of unisex vibes in the Silent label. I developed the women out of the men. This season I think the collection became more feminine and it'll get even more in the future. I definitively want to push it further. I think that the incorporation of femininity is really important at this point.

I know that your work in family, with your mum, and sister making the jewelry line. Can you tell us a little more about your creative process and production?

My mother is working in the same business and when I started I thought it was logical to work with her. For seven years we developed the patterns together and the collections. My sister is a jewelry designer so it's logical too to incorporate her in my vision. It's so interesting to collaborate. At the start we were only 3, my mother, a sales person and me; and suddenly we started to get very successful. At first you can't know what will happen, but one year after we were needing more people. It's the moment you get this step from 3 to 10; and now we're 25. Building a label, and all the work you can imagine is surrounding, it's really difficult and you need to have people with you to help you, people that understand and work with you well to make a good job.

You were presenting your collection at Pitti Immagine, how it was?

First of all it was a big honor for me, to be able to be there and be part of this such prestigious event. Obviously it has a major impact, because when you watch at the lineup from the past 10 years, they got the most amazing designers to show their collections, and got even more successful afterward. For me it was almost like a sign. For Pitti you can't choose, you have to be chosen, it's a quite an exclusive sphere. I was very excited, and to be able to show my work in others circumstances, and to people that would maybe not come usually to my shows. Every years, in Paris, it's great, but it's really about business, everyone is really hectic and stressed. Pitti it's different, it's slow style, and you feel it in the air, and it's the beauty of it. Pitti shows are magic. I'm really happy that they have chosen me, but I'm really happy that Pitti exists.

You got selected to present your women collection, and not your men collection. Is it for you the occasion to make another step ahead in the evolution of your label?

I think that Pitti felt that it was my moment, especially for womenswear. My menswear collection is already quite established, in term of business or followers, and now I have kind of more time to expend my women collections. It's the first time I was creating a pre-collection, and it was exciting to see the label growing.

What are your main inspirations in your work?

Six years ago I was really fascinated with earthy, natural artists. But today I'm more interested in contemporary art, and I think it reflects in the latest collections, more graphic, more white, more clean. For this collection, it was a little of Armani. But it's not always evident in the clothes but maybe in the attitude, the way the model put he hands in the pockets of her pant, or the ambiance of the show. I think it's more about that.

What is the future for Damir Doma?

For me it's all about building a modern fashion house, but not an obvious one, not a classic one. For me it's important to built strong foundations. We just opened a new store, and it makes you realize that it's not only a dream, it's something that people can buy and wear. You have to make sure, and imagine the pieces on people, not on models, it gives us confidence in what we do.

WORDS
LAURENT GIBIOT
PHOTO
CHANTELE DOSER

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