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Power suits are out. At least for Nicolas Ghesquière. His latest Louis Vuitton collection shows us a different way to wear suits, in a more collegiate/young adult going to a prestigious university for the first-time kind of way. It’s a refreshing take on a look explored season after season at most fashion houses showcased at the Musée d’Orsay – the first time a fashion house has turned the museum into a runway.

Or are we actually talking about suits? We’re talking of the concept of aspirational dressing, those ambitious outfits that can transport us to a state of mind, the Gen Z version of this would be the girlboss mindset but call it whatever you want. As exemplified in this Fall/Winter collection, this can be done through leather motor jackets or oversized wool or fur-lined jackets – let’s just say statement pieces but, most importantly for Ghesquière in this collection, ties. This is an ode to ties in all its glory, from flamboyant prints to block colours.

Louis Vuitton’s ambassador, model and actress Hoyeon Jung from Squid Game showed this when opening the show by wearing a yellow flower-print tie complemented by a luscious brown aviator jacket, an off-white chemise, oversized wool trousers and an LV print foulard next to the tie, an unusual yet exquisite finishing touch. She’s followed by other models who wear variations of this impeccably elegant look. Ghesquière also explores other combinations, like dresses and ties put together, and other feminine outfits that play with the iconic A-line.

The collection takes a bit of a turn midway through garments that show off photographs of male models, something a fangirl would wear, further exploring what young adults wear nowadays. I mean, all work and no play never helped anyone, right? Which is why he explores this refreshing playfulness, also seen in what we would usually call ‘tomboy looks’ – although these terms seem outdated nowadays – in baggy collegiate looks mixed and matched with flowy tulle skirts and knitted jumpers tied at the waist.

Prodigious singer Lous and The Yakuza shows us just this by closing off the show with a sober yet colourful look consisting of a huge blue, white and yellow polo shirt worn on top of a flowy yellow dress. It is a statement of where the young woman is going through, although she turns to the classics she manages to change and modify it slightly to tie in with her style and lifestyle. The preppy Elle Woods from Legally Blonde or Blair Waldorf from Gossip Girl hasn’t necessarily left, she has been updated to fit in with the times.

Words
Mercedes Rosés

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