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Jonathan Anderson's latest proposal for the Spanish firm was presented as a reductionist act at Paris Fashion Week. Over the last 10 years, we have seen how the Irish designer has been committed to the value of the craftsmanship that defines Loewe's DNA and has elevated it by redefining the brand's codes. On this occasion, the Creative Director shows us an unfocused vision, a minimalism contained between the play of materials and their way of reflecting light. Where everyday garments are resized and superfluous details are left behind, giving way to lines, silhouettes and texture. A new formula that has caused a sensation.

The collection was presented in a white cube, built in the garden of the famous Chateau de Vincennes, a prison for philosophers and the last place Mata Hari was in. There, leather, silk, satin, velvet and knit were the protagonists, forming elemental garments, which moved among the colourful and fragile cube-shaped confetti sculptures, which the artist Lara Favaretto had made for the occasion. Optical illusion was immediately introduced with blurred printed dresses and straight necklines that created illusions and trompe l'oeil, blurring their shapes or materials.

This ‘deception’ was maintained throughout the collection, creating an amusing wink in this reduction to the essence. But also the structure of the silhouette was a key point, as we saw in the rigid leather garments, in black or splattered with pastel shades such as short shirts, dresses, T-shirts or pleated skirts. Also, the wraps with just a delicate and small detail that creates the silhouette, such as a pin that picks up the volume or a chain that holds a drape. Oversized knitwear or treated to achieve different textures. Skin suits, garments covered in dyed feathers or dresses with hollows that let the arms cross over the bust and gather a satin tail in the hand were mixed with shiny coats.

The collection revolves around the brand's classic shades, with colours such as brown, black, camel and red, with small touches of pastel or blue. Accessories were the big stars of the show, with oversized bags such as the new squeeze model in the shape of a doughnut and chain, or the Puzzle and Paseo bags in oversize versions. The shoe collection includes round-toe boots, some high boots that slump, kitten-heeled moccasins and stilettos. A proposal that experiments with fading impressions, proportions and fluidity in a commitment to savoir-faire and craftsmanship.

Alvaro Bochert

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