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With the Spring/Summer 2014 collection, denim pioneer-brand G-Star kicks off its 25th anniversary year. Their latest collection features hybrid casual wear that honors two and a half decades of crafted, durable garments, made unique by subtle yet modern detailing. Known for creating pieces that inspire ‘forbidden combinations’ (think a mesh jersey right off an inner-city basketball court, worn with work wear-inspired salvaged denim pants and combined with the clean shapes of a sculpted darkest raw denim blazer), G-Star Raw presented their vision for the next summer at Kater Holzig, a former factory-cum-club and Berlin’s hippest hardcore partygoers favorite playground.

G-Star’s new collection (re-)introduces updated interpretations of four classic denims from the early years when the company was founded. Twisted seams, elongated rear pockets inseams and asymmetrically tapered fitting deconstruct the traditional denim silhouette. The brand puts a strong focus on an architectural approach to construction, as much as a a “second skin wearing experience”- the clothes are made so as to be at work for their wearer, as demonstrated through the collection’s presentation itself. An exclusive ballet performance by modern dance group Conny Jannssen Danst, it showcased the urban functionality and maximized freedom of movement promised.

In keeping with celebratory self-awareness, a red thread of trusted vintage elements ran through the collection, including the accessories. The hot topic of the evening was the launch of the brand’s first ever eyewear range (and a secret so well-protected that no images of the specs were allowed)., where updated vintage shapes are fused with extremely wearable industrial design to create looks equally relevant and of the moment as they transcended season-bound trendiness. A similar synthesis was especially noticeable in some key pieces in G-Star’s women’s collection: pleated elements reoccured in otherwise cleanly and linearly designed skirts, dresses and blouses; and trousers based on the brand’s classic men’s design feature added details like stitching, turned-up cropped legs which created a nonchalant feminine look in interplay with the roughness of the more masculine designs.

The collection was dominated by unagitated, solid blues and greys, featuring some crisp white highlights and splashes of camouflage print. Whereas the men’s pieces and accessories appeared almost sculpted with their visible construction detail and aggressive silhouettes, the women’s collection included pieces that emphasized the use of fabrics which enhanced the silhouette of the body wearing it. Contrasting more fluid jersey materials with rough elements like bold prints, leather inlets or capped sleeves, G-Star brought the key details in the men’s and women’s designs full circle. Drawing on the aesthetics and design practicalities of work and army wear, as much as athletic design and fit, G-Star RAW’s S/S 2014 collection infused the brand’s denim heart blood with much love for on-trend detailing and evolutionary re-inventions of time-honored staple pieces.

WORDS
JOS PORATH

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