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Staged under a Guinness World record breaking inflatable model and guests invited with a glass buttplug, Diesel’s Spring/Summer 2023 collection, engineered around the concept of democratic fashion and open to a public audience, introduced abstractions of a blue-jeaned future governed by unconventionality and experimentalism.

“I wanted to open Diesel up to the public, for people who may never have been to a fashion show before”, Glenn Martens explained via a press release. “They deserve a spectacle, so we’ve broken the record for the biggest inflatable sculpture in the world. It’s what I believe about the fashion and state of mind – everybody can be part of Diesel.” The spectacle established itself as a testament of this, in addition to reinforcing Martens’ steadfast influence on the Gen Z audience. 4.600 members of the public attended the show, 1.600 of whom are Milan-based fashion students, and seventy per cent of the showgoers were under the age of 26.

Commencing after a countdown, accompanied by resounding warning sirens, models wove around the larger-than-life sculpture to a euro-techno beat. Signalling the inception of his vision and outfitted in the Creative Director’s contemporary designs, the rigid blue denim material fitted around their bodies and billowing behind them as they walked. Looks featured a dynamically audacious coat constructed out of distressed Diesel labels, denim footwear, and croc-print details. Jeans marched into view in a dramatised none-conformist display of shredded Canadian tuxedos, a straight cut silhouette bound together by a multitude of zips and bleached washes.

Martens additionally ventured in the footsteps of his foregone Fall 2022 Ready-To-Wear collection, experimenting with motorcycle leather, cargo silhouettes, and reinvigorating the stand-out belt skirt in futuristic metallic shades... Outerwear too, existed to make an impact, boucle coats were designed from torn and feathered Diesel printed fabric and masculine trenches had been reworked out of rugged leather and denim. For accessories the brand produced eyewear pieces in collaboration with EssilorLuxottica and re-introduced the staple 1DR bag.

After models once again walked in and out of the titanic sculpture, the final look, a striking red skirt emblazoned with the Diesel logo and paired with a denim trucker jacket, brought the spectacle to a close using a pointed exclamation mark.

Sabrina Roman
Filippo Fior /

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